Spain Writings
Written by Marianna
13. Sevilla, Puerto Rico Epilogue– July 15-18, 2010
July 2010
Our leaving Sevilla was fairly smooth. First we had to get to Sevilla. Our bus from Palmar pulled into Sevilla at midnight on the 11th of July, moments after Spain won their first World Soccer Cup. The joyous celebrations lasted far into the night.
The next morning, Monday, the first of our two days allotted to packing to leave Spain, we began to fit things into the beautiful plastic boxes with built-in little wheels that I had been collecting while Freddie was at the beach. I already had many things sorted by function and room, piled on the couch near the boxes they would go in. These household things get stored in Spain.
Before breakfast, I had to go to the market to buy food. I ran to the telephone store too, to see if I could exchange the cute little modem/phone I bought for Freddie, but it was too late. Too much time had passed. The little phone is almost impossible to read outside in the daylight. Sometimes it is hard to hear as well. When its speakerphone is on, the other party can’t hear me. But it is a Yoigo phone and was basically free and it was a good idea. The Yoigo phone company is the cheapest in Spain that I know of.
Nancy came with me because we were trying to change her phone too, but the week had passed and she had missed her opportunity to exchange it as well. Nancy loved her phone but the Movistar plan was way too expensive and she used her “saldo” (prepaid money) up very quickly. You cannot put a Yoigo (or any other) card in another company’s phone unless it is unlocked, like my iphone.
We solved the problem by my lending Nancy Freddie’s phone since we would be leaving so soon. Instead of buying a new phone, she would only have to put saldo on the phone. Our Yoigo plan would save her lots of money.
On my way home from the phone store, I took some money out of my American bank and deposited some of it into my new Spanish bank, using the easy automatic cajero. The exchange rate had already started moving up again (not good for us) and I wanted to have a reserve for when we return.
After that excursion, I had time to make myself some breakfast and then start to pack. After her dance class with Torombo, Nancy returned and helped us pack. She has a good sense of organization and it was nice to have her company. Carlos came over to say goodbye. Lakshmi stopped by later that night, after work. Of course, we were still up packing.
Angel’s land phone wasn’t working so we made our calls on our cell phone, which is always more expensive, as calling land phone to land phone within Spain is free. We had to call the airlines and the taxi and some of our friends. Luckily, we had already switched to Yoigo or we would have spent a lot more money than we did.
That evening we went out to dinner with Juan and Lucy, who had recently returned from teaching a two-week workshop in New York. Lucy had to go out of town the next day, so this was our only opportunity to say goodbye. It was nice to spend time with them. We are happy that we will see them in November, when they come to California to perform and teach.
Tuesday we packed some more. In the afternoon, our friends Susana and Paco came over and wanted us to take a ride in their beautiful new car, but we felt that we needed a little more time to pack and we were expecting Teresa, who was on her way, walking with her dog, to say goodbye and to pick up the guitar that Freddie was leaving in her care. So, we just waited by the new car that didn’t have a place to park and said our goodbyes. Teresa arrived and Susana and Paco were able to drive her, the guitar, and her little dog Ninya back to Triana.
Freddie and I had ice cream one last time at our favorite heladería. Later in the evening, Juan came by and then Lakshmi came again after work. We had the most relaxing packing experience we have ever had. And we got it all done. Our plastic boxes are neatly stacked under Angel’s stairs. Angel has already hung Freddie’s tricycle up on the wall. Lakshmi has our Brita water filter and one of Freddie’s guitars; Teresa has the other guitar.
At ten minutes to eight the next morning, Angel came downstairs to say goodbye. At eight o’clock, the taxi arrived to take us to the airport. Fortunately, taxis going to the airport in Spain always seem to arrive on time.
We had a long layover in Madrid and we had planned to meet our friend Miguel, but I had his old cell number and did not find his work cell number he now uses until I had time to set up the computer. There was no answer on his old phone, which I called as soon as we got off the plane. I left a message for him and later when I found his other phone number, I left messages on both phones.
Next, we arrived at the airport lounge, thanks to our business class air mile flight. There they had a sleeping room, so we both took naps while we waited. What luxury.
Miguel had left me a message, which I received when I woke up. I finally connected with him, but we had to say our goodbyes by phone instead of with lunch in person.
Then it was time to leave for Puerto Rico. Everything went smoothly, and we said goodbye to Spain and the plane took off.
***
July 15, 2010
San Juan, Puerto Rico
San Juan is hot and sticky. We arrived at our hotel last night at three AM Spain time. Puerto Rico is six hours earlier than Spain is. Freddie paid the taxi driver the eighteen dollars for the five-minute ride but he didn’t tell me. So when I came out to get the rest of our bags I paid him again! He took it. The porter at the airport also charged us sixteen dollars. At least he did more work for us. But he counted all the bags, including the one that Freddie and I carried. He did send all of them through the agricultural scanner but I could have done that as well. The four suitcases were the ones that we needed the help with because the cart rental at the airport was broken so there were no luggage carts available. Freddie always travels in the wheel chair in the airport so he couldn’t wheel any more luggage than what we could carry on his lap. That included his carryon with his computer, his cane, and his new guitar.
The small, oceanfront hotel had given away the specifically reserved room we had carefully booked way in advance, so they put us in the room we had been advised against by our friend Karen, who lives here. It has an ocean view and a small, ugly, concrete patio. It is not as noisy as Karen had thought it would be, being above the bar, but it was only Wednesday night. We slept well on the big comfortable bed and woke up early, still on Spanish time.
Freddie noticed that a window by the concrete porch had been patched with wood where we assumed that somebody had recently broken in! We decided that we needed to move, as we didn’t feel safe there.
July 17, 2010 Saturday on the plane home
We changed rooms the following morning, but we found out that the wood over the window in our first room was for the air conditioner and not the result of a break in. Our new room was on the street side but we loved it. We could see the beach and the ocean from the windows. The staff was extremely nice and helpful and immediately put us at ease that next morning. They even moved the tiny refrigerator from our old room to our new room at our friend Karen’s request.
Karen used to have a booth at the Renaissance Faire where she sold her hand painted delicate designs on ostrich eggs when she lived in California. She also was a Flamenco aficionada (lover) and loved Latin and African music as well. We have both known her for a long time and it was nice to see her in Puerto Rico. Karen, has lived in San Juan, Puerto Rico for 22 years
That first morning, after awaking early on Spanish time (six hours later than Puerto Rico), Freddie and I had coffee and orange juice at the hotel’s outdoor restaurant and watched the rain and the ocean from our covered table. A short while later, Karen came over to take us sightseeing. First, of course, we changed rooms and Karen helped us move our suitcases. Then we unloaded the beach chairs and the box of granola candy bars she had brought for us in the trunk of her bright red car.
Karen took us to another restaurant for breakfast. It rained several times while we were eating but then the weather cleared and became very hot and humid for our sightseeing trip.
First we drove to see old San Juan, which is very picturesque. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find parking so we just drove around in the humid heat. Next we drove up the coast to Loiza, a very poor, mainly black barrio, where Karen has many friends. Karen has been helping the children in that neighborhood for years. She collects toys, arranges for them to go to camp, and is generally concerned about their welfare. Karen’s Spanish is perfect and she speaks Spanish to everyone, although most of the people here seem to be bilingual.
Many of Karen’s friends are dancers and musicians.
We stopped at the tiny shop and home of the Ayalas, a traditional Puerto Rican dance and music family.
Raquel Ayala used to be an incredible dancer, Karen told us, until she hurt her knee and had to retire from their dance troupe. Raquel, honey-colored, round and beautiful, is a warm and caring person.
There is a big painting of her in the house, and we saw the same painting on the wall of a cultural museum earlier in the day.
Her late father founded the family troupe and it is still one of the major performing troupes on the island.
Wanting to support these people’s art, which filled the tiny shop next to their house, I bought a CD of their music, and a beautiful seed necklace and some maracas made by Raquel’s sister. Raquel helped me to decide which of the two necklaces I had chosen looked better on me. We felt an immediate connection. On Karen’s recommendation, I also bought some coconut hair oil made by the sister.
The family also specializes in making masks, but they were too big to even think of carrying home.
Karen mentioned that I was hungry and before I knew it a bowl of delicious hot soup appeared before me. Later we had to try Raquel’s rice dish that had just finished cooking.
The family sat in the shade of their yard playing dominos, a favorite game here on the island. Raquel is a champ and usually wins the games.
Karen also bought some homemade sugarcane rum that is abundant on the island. People seem to drink a lot here.
On the way back to San Juan, still dripping in sweat from the unaccustomed humidity, we stopped at a roadside stand and bought deep fried plantains with river crab inside of them. They are cooked right there on a wood fire. They weren’t as good as they looked, but they were traditional and local, which is what we wanted. We also drank coconut milk from freshly opened coconuts. The day was very hot and muggy and we felt as if we were in a sauna.
Many of the stores and restaurants along the road were closed. Now they only open up on the weekends, because with the current economic crisis there isn’t enough traffic to warrant staying open all week. We passed many businesses that had folded for good because of the crisis. Puerto Rico had been hit hard and there is major unemployment here.
That afternoon Karen had to work and Freddie and I had planned to go to the crowded beach right outside our window. But, still on Spanish time, we took a nap instead and missed the beach that day. I guess we were spoiled by the Palmar beach in Spain. This one couldn’t hold a candle to it.
In the evening, we spent time with some other old friends, Marcellus and Laura Sutton-Barnes and their oldest daughter Leia.
Marcellus and Laura were also old Renaissance faire people but Freddie had first met Marcellus in Greenwich Village, in New York and they have now been friends for over fifty years.
Marcellus had just turned seventy and they were celebrating his birthday by visiting their daughter Leia, who has lived in Puerto Rico for about eight years. Marcellus and Laura had rescheduled their visit to coincide with ours.
Leia and her sister Mara had visited us in Sevilla several years ago and of course, we had all had a wonderful time. But we had not seen her parents for years. Freddie and Marcellus feel like very close brothers. After all these years their friendship is still strong and current. I had not actually met Laura before, but I felt as though I already knew her. We had a lot of fun together.
That evening, along with Leia’s partner Jose Alfredo, we went to a fantastic sevichi restaurant. The rain started again and would fall heavily for a while and then stop. This is typical for this time of year, we found out. The weather stays hot even when it rains.
After dinner, we drove to see Leia’s and Jose Alfredo’s new apartment, which was wonderful. We didn’t get to sleep until two AM Puerto Rican time that night. So we tried to sleep late. The gigantic bed in our new room was also extremely comfortable.
In the morning the rain continued to fall heavily and then stop and then start again. But we were determined to go to the beach in Puerto Rico.
Marcellus and family joined us and we all went down to the beach next door, which was not very crowded because of the overcast weather.
After we set up our beach chairs and towels, it started to rain heavily again and the warmest place we found was in the water!
So we waited out the rain swimming in the ocean!
That was a first for all of us, except for Leia
After the rain stopped, Karen joined us at the beach.
Then we all went out
to dinner and ended up at our hotel again.
Karen, who bakes professionally, had made a birthday cake for herself. Her sixty-seventh birthday is next week but she wanted to celebrate it with old friends and we were all there. So, we went to our hotel’s outdoor restaurant and ate cake and the band played Happy Birthday. We celebrated Freddie’s June birthday and Marcellus’ and Karen’s July birthdays!
Marcellus and Laura left for Arizona at 10:30 the next morning on the same airline and to the same hub that we left for at 1:50 PM that afternoon. Their connection actually was scheduled to leave Dallas later than ours so they planned to meet us in Dallas when we landed.
Our jet lag has not been bad. This is a great way to break up the trip home. I have never before felt so good and refreshed after leaving Spain. We didn’t get to see everything that we “should” have in Puerto Rico, but we did enjoy our trip and seeing our old friends. The weather of course was way too wet for us but did not stop our enjoyment.
What a wonderful trip we have had this year. Every trip is so different and unfolds as the time passes. We are both so grateful for these experiences.
Our layover was in Dallas (American does not have direct flights from San Juan to San Francisco). There, as prearranged, we met Marcellus and Laura, who were waiting for us at our gate. We all had time to take the tram to the gate where Freddie and I would fly to San Francisco. From there, we wheeled Freddie, who always takes the wheelchair on long distance flights, to a restaurant where we had ten minutes to have drinks. Then we wheeled Freddie back to our gate where we had just missed our pre-boarding option. But they let us board right then and everything worked out easily. Marcellus and Laura had to get back to the first terminal to catch their next flight to Arizona. It was nice to have an extra mini-visit with them on the way home. Hopefully it won’t be so long until we see them next.
Sitting on the plane on the way to San Francisco, I think about whether I am excited about going home or not. And I find that I am not excited. I feel as if I have no feelings about it; I am suspended in time. I am truly in the moment.
This trip is ending and our lives at home in Santa Cruz will begin again soon. While neither of us felt ready to leave Spain this time, we are now here in the air and we know that we will be home soon.
Our trip has been filled with friendship, and healing and a lot of beach. I have felt fulfilled with my Flamenco studies and my improvement in both my dance and my singing. I feel inspired.
Freddie has been regaining physical movement and coordination and his language has been steadily returning. He has re-experienced his autonomy for the first time since his stroke, more than four and a half years ago. And I too have experienced my independence, being able to leave Freddie on his own and know that he would be OK! Our relationship has grown and adjusted accordingly.
This trip has been an important milestone for both of us and we are both extremely grateful for all that has happened.
Our leaving Sevilla was fairly smooth. First we had to get to Sevilla. Our bus from Palmar pulled into Sevilla at midnight on the 11th of July, moments after Spain won their first World Soccer Cup. The joyous celebrations lasted far into the night.
The next morning, Monday, the first of our two days allotted to packing to leave Spain, we began to fit things into the beautiful plastic boxes with built-in little wheels that I had been collecting while Freddie was at the beach. I already had many things sorted by function and room, piled on the couch near the boxes they would go in. These household things get stored in Spain.
Before breakfast, I had to go to the market to buy food. I ran to the telephone store too, to see if I could exchange the cute little modem/phone I bought for Freddie, but it was too late. Too much time had passed. The little phone is almost impossible to read outside in the daylight. Sometimes it is hard to hear as well. When its speakerphone is on, the other party can’t hear me. But it is a Yoigo phone and was basically free and it was a good idea. The Yoigo phone company is the cheapest in Spain that I know of.
Nancy came with me because we were trying to change her phone too, but the week had passed and she had missed her opportunity to exchange it as well. Nancy loved her phone but the Movistar plan was way too expensive and she used her “saldo” (prepaid money) up very quickly. You cannot put a Yoigo (or any other) card in another company’s phone unless it is unlocked, like my iphone.
We solved the problem by my lending Nancy Freddie’s phone since we would be leaving so soon. Instead of buying a new phone, she would only have to put saldo on the phone. Our Yoigo plan would save her lots of money.
On my way home from the phone store, I took some money out of my American bank and deposited some of it into my new Spanish bank, using the easy automatic cajero. The exchange rate had already started moving up again (not good for us) and I wanted to have a reserve for when we return.
After that excursion, I had time to make myself some breakfast and then start to pack. After her dance class with Torombo, Nancy returned and helped us pack. She has a good sense of organization and it was nice to have her company. Carlos came over to say goodbye. Lakshmi stopped by later that night, after work. Of course, we were still up packing.
Angel’s land phone wasn’t working so we made our calls on our cell phone, which is always more expensive, as calling land phone to land phone within Spain is free. We had to call the airlines and the taxi and some of our friends. Luckily, we had already switched to Yoigo or we would have spent a lot more money than we did.
That evening we went out to dinner with Juan and Lucy, who had recently returned from teaching a two-week workshop in New York. Lucy had to go out of town the next day, so this was our only opportunity to say goodbye. It was nice to spend time with them. We are happy that we will see them in November, when they come to California to perform and teach.
Tuesday we packed some more. In the afternoon, our friends Susana and Paco came over and wanted us to take a ride in their beautiful new car, but we felt that we needed a little more time to pack and we were expecting Teresa, who was on her way, walking with her dog, to say goodbye and to pick up the guitar that Freddie was leaving in her care. So, we just waited by the new car that didn’t have a place to park and said our goodbyes. Teresa arrived and Susana and Paco were able to drive her, the guitar, and her little dog Ninya back to Triana.
Freddie and I had ice cream one last time at our favorite heladería. Later in the evening, Juan came by and then Lakshmi came again after work. We had the most relaxing packing experience we have ever had. And we got it all done. Our plastic boxes are neatly stacked under Angel’s stairs. Angel has already hung Freddie’s tricycle up on the wall. Lakshmi has our Brita water filter and one of Freddie’s guitars; Teresa has the other guitar.
At ten minutes to eight the next morning, Angel came downstairs to say goodbye. At eight o’clock, the taxi arrived to take us to the airport. Fortunately, taxis going to the airport in Spain always seem to arrive on time.
We had a long layover in Madrid and we had planned to meet our friend Miguel, but I had his old cell number and did not find his work cell number he now uses until I had time to set up the computer. There was no answer on his old phone, which I called as soon as we got off the plane. I left a message for him and later when I found his other phone number, I left messages on both phones.
Next, we arrived at the airport lounge, thanks to our business class air mile flight. There they had a sleeping room, so we both took naps while we waited. What luxury.
Miguel had left me a message, which I received when I woke up. I finally connected with him, but we had to say our goodbyes by phone instead of with lunch in person.
Then it was time to leave for Puerto Rico. Everything went smoothly, and we said goodbye to Spain and the plane took off.
***
July 15, 2010
San Juan, Puerto Rico
San Juan is hot and sticky. We arrived at our hotel last night at three AM Spain time. Puerto Rico is six hours earlier than Spain is. Freddie paid the taxi driver the eighteen dollars for the five-minute ride but he didn’t tell me. So when I came out to get the rest of our bags I paid him again! He took it. The porter at the airport also charged us sixteen dollars. At least he did more work for us. But he counted all the bags, including the one that Freddie and I carried. He did send all of them through the agricultural scanner but I could have done that as well. The four suitcases were the ones that we needed the help with because the cart rental at the airport was broken so there were no luggage carts available. Freddie always travels in the wheel chair in the airport so he couldn’t wheel any more luggage than what we could carry on his lap. That included his carryon with his computer, his cane, and his new guitar.
The small, oceanfront hotel had given away the specifically reserved room we had carefully booked way in advance, so they put us in the room we had been advised against by our friend Karen, who lives here. It has an ocean view and a small, ugly, concrete patio. It is not as noisy as Karen had thought it would be, being above the bar, but it was only Wednesday night. We slept well on the big comfortable bed and woke up early, still on Spanish time.
Freddie noticed that a window by the concrete porch had been patched with wood where we assumed that somebody had recently broken in! We decided that we needed to move, as we didn’t feel safe there.
July 17, 2010 Saturday on the plane home
We changed rooms the following morning, but we found out that the wood over the window in our first room was for the air conditioner and not the result of a break in. Our new room was on the street side but we loved it. We could see the beach and the ocean from the windows. The staff was extremely nice and helpful and immediately put us at ease that next morning. They even moved the tiny refrigerator from our old room to our new room at our friend Karen’s request.
Karen used to have a booth at the Renaissance Faire where she sold her hand painted delicate designs on ostrich eggs when she lived in California. She also was a Flamenco aficionada (lover) and loved Latin and African music as well. We have both known her for a long time and it was nice to see her in Puerto Rico. Karen, has lived in San Juan, Puerto Rico for 22 years
That first morning, after awaking early on Spanish time (six hours later than Puerto Rico), Freddie and I had coffee and orange juice at the hotel’s outdoor restaurant and watched the rain and the ocean from our covered table. A short while later, Karen came over to take us sightseeing. First, of course, we changed rooms and Karen helped us move our suitcases. Then we unloaded the beach chairs and the box of granola candy bars she had brought for us in the trunk of her bright red car.
Karen took us to another restaurant for breakfast. It rained several times while we were eating but then the weather cleared and became very hot and humid for our sightseeing trip.
First we drove to see old San Juan, which is very picturesque. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find parking so we just drove around in the humid heat. Next we drove up the coast to Loiza, a very poor, mainly black barrio, where Karen has many friends. Karen has been helping the children in that neighborhood for years. She collects toys, arranges for them to go to camp, and is generally concerned about their welfare. Karen’s Spanish is perfect and she speaks Spanish to everyone, although most of the people here seem to be bilingual.
Front door of the Ayala home.
Many of Karen’s friends are dancers and musicians.
Freddie
The Ayala's little store.
Raquel with domino.
Painting of Raquel in the Ayala home.
Paintings the Ayala home.
Wanting to support these people’s art, which filled the tiny shop next to their house, I bought a CD of their music, and a beautiful seed necklace and some maracas made by Raquel’s sister. Raquel helped me to decide which of the two necklaces I had chosen looked better on me. We felt an immediate connection. On Karen’s recommendation, I also bought some coconut hair oil made by the sister.
Karen, Raquel's sister & Marianna wearing the seed necklace made by Raquel's sister.
The Ayala store
Freddie looking out from the store. Note the mask on the right.
Karen mentioned that I was hungry and before I knew it a bowl of delicious hot soup appeared before me. Later we had to try Raquel’s rice dish that had just finished cooking.
The family sat in the shade of their yard playing dominos, a favorite game here on the island. Raquel is a champ and usually wins the games.
Outside the Ayala home.
Freddie & Marianna by the cutout statues.
On the way back to San Juan, still dripping in sweat from the unaccustomed humidity, we stopped at a roadside stand and bought deep fried plantains with river crab inside of them. They are cooked right there on a wood fire. They weren’t as good as they looked, but they were traditional and local, which is what we wanted. We also drank coconut milk from freshly opened coconuts. The day was very hot and muggy and we felt as if we were in a sauna.
Many of the stores and restaurants along the road were closed. Now they only open up on the weekends, because with the current economic crisis there isn’t enough traffic to warrant staying open all week. We passed many businesses that had folded for good because of the crisis. Puerto Rico had been hit hard and there is major unemployment here.
That afternoon Karen had to work and Freddie and I had planned to go to the crowded beach right outside our window. But, still on Spanish time, we took a nap instead and missed the beach that day. I guess we were spoiled by the Palmar beach in Spain. This one couldn’t hold a candle to it.
In the evening, we spent time with some other old friends, Marcellus and Laura Sutton-Barnes and their oldest daughter Leia.
Laura, Freddie, Marcellus & Leia
Marcellus at the Renaissance Faire.
Freddie & Marcellus July 2010. Marcellus is 70. Freddie is 71.
All of us
Leia and her sister Mara had visited us in Sevilla several years ago and of course, we had all had a wonderful time. But we had not seen her parents for years. Freddie and Marcellus feel like very close brothers. After all these years their friendship is still strong and current. I had not actually met Laura before, but I felt as though I already knew her. We had a lot of fun together.
All of us
That evening, along with Leia’s partner Jose Alfredo, we went to a fantastic sevichi restaurant. The rain started again and would fall heavily for a while and then stop. This is typical for this time of year, we found out. The weather stays hot even when it rains.
After dinner, we drove to see Leia’s and Jose Alfredo’s new apartment, which was wonderful. We didn’t get to sleep until two AM Puerto Rican time that night. So we tried to sleep late. The gigantic bed in our new room was also extremely comfortable.
In the morning the rain continued to fall heavily and then stop and then start again. But we were determined to go to the beach in Puerto Rico.
Freddie and Laura (photo by Leia)
Freddie and Marcellus (photo by Leia)
Freddie and Marcellus (photo by Leia)
Freddie and Marcellus (photo by Leia)
Freddie and Marcellus (photo by Leia)
Swimming in the rain (photo by Leia)
After the rain stopped, Karen joined us at the beach.
Laura, Marcells, Marianna, Freddie & Karen
Freddie & Marcellus & Karen
Freddie & Marcellus & Karen
Marcellus, Freddie, Laura, Leia, & Karen
Laura, Marianna & Leia (Laura's daughter)
Laura, Marianna & Leia
Marcellus and Laura left for Arizona at 10:30 the next morning on the same airline and to the same hub that we left for at 1:50 PM that afternoon. Their connection actually was scheduled to leave Dallas later than ours so they planned to meet us in Dallas when we landed.
Our jet lag has not been bad. This is a great way to break up the trip home. I have never before felt so good and refreshed after leaving Spain. We didn’t get to see everything that we “should” have in Puerto Rico, but we did enjoy our trip and seeing our old friends. The weather of course was way too wet for us but did not stop our enjoyment.
What a wonderful trip we have had this year. Every trip is so different and unfolds as the time passes. We are both so grateful for these experiences.
Our layover was in Dallas (American does not have direct flights from San Juan to San Francisco). There, as prearranged, we met Marcellus and Laura, who were waiting for us at our gate. We all had time to take the tram to the gate where Freddie and I would fly to San Francisco. From there, we wheeled Freddie, who always takes the wheelchair on long distance flights, to a restaurant where we had ten minutes to have drinks. Then we wheeled Freddie back to our gate where we had just missed our pre-boarding option. But they let us board right then and everything worked out easily. Marcellus and Laura had to get back to the first terminal to catch their next flight to Arizona. It was nice to have an extra mini-visit with them on the way home. Hopefully it won’t be so long until we see them next.
Sitting on the plane on the way to San Francisco, I think about whether I am excited about going home or not. And I find that I am not excited. I feel as if I have no feelings about it; I am suspended in time. I am truly in the moment.
This trip is ending and our lives at home in Santa Cruz will begin again soon. While neither of us felt ready to leave Spain this time, we are now here in the air and we know that we will be home soon.
Our trip has been filled with friendship, and healing and a lot of beach. I have felt fulfilled with my Flamenco studies and my improvement in both my dance and my singing. I feel inspired.
Freddie has been regaining physical movement and coordination and his language has been steadily returning. He has re-experienced his autonomy for the first time since his stroke, more than four and a half years ago. And I too have experienced my independence, being able to leave Freddie on his own and know that he would be OK! Our relationship has grown and adjusted accordingly.
This trip has been an important milestone for both of us and we are both extremely grateful for all that has happened.
Written by Marianna
12. Sevilla & the Beach – July 1-13, 2010
July 1, 2010
Back at the beach
It is hot. The levante winds from the African desert have been here, mildly. While the winds are not whipping the sand up, as they easily can, the weather has been scorching hot, even here at the beach.
Yesterday, Freddie and I didn’t even get to the actual beach until after six-thirty in the evening, when we joined Josh, Regina, Regina’s mother Antonia, and Regina’s thirteen-year old son, Rafa.
But the sea is almost smooth; the tiny waves that do roll and break have little force. The water felt prickly with the cold contrast to the day. Freddie was able to float on his back and swim a few strokes on his stomach. After the beach we all visited the clubhouse.
Hector’s clubhouse is such a great meeting and hanging out place. It is always mellow and friendly and it has a magical quality. Magical things happen at this Club Social (private social club), as if in a dream. I haven’t yet written enough about the two powerful women who run it, Mar and Aspi.
Maria Mar wears her long brownish hair in many small braids, usually capped with a bandana.
Two silver jewels adorn her right eyebrow, pierced onto either side of the outer end of the eyebrow.
Her busy hands wear silver bracelets and rings.
Always on her feet are black, very high-heeled espadrilles, Spanish shoes made out of canvas and what feels like cork. They often tie up with little ribbons, like hers do. On her legs Mar usually wears knee-length tights and over that she wears her long blouses. (Appropriate modifications happen in the heat of the summer, of course.) Her blue eyes, looking out through her square-shaped face, are kind. Mar has a lot of energy and a wonderful way of making you feel comfortable and cared for.
Last night Freddie and I came up late and happened to catch a slide show of Mar’s photographs that they were watching on a computer. The many beautiful photos were artfully composed and they captured the mood of this space and place perfectly. Mar is very gifted with her photography. Aspi has taken some of the photos too, so I guess they are both gifted photographers.
I wore my heels for Mar, who always wears hers.
Mar, like her business partner and good friend Aspi, is also a wonderful cook. Both Mar and Aspi make gazpacho without bread so that I can drink it. The gazpacho is refreshing and invigorating and I love it. I appreciate both Mar and Aspi’s caring and their attention to detail as well as their loving smiles and giving and fun personalities.
Aspi also makes a carne con tomate (meat cooked in tomato sauce) that is delicious and has only ingredients I can eat in it. Aspi has upper-back length brown hair and animated brown eyes. She usually dresses in her bathing suit with a light shirt thrown over that.
Aspi, like Mar, is also energetic and warm.They both work long hours doing everything, from cleaning up to washing dishes to cooking and serving and selling the ten-euro Lazotea cards that you then get stamped when you order something.
Of course I cook at home too. Today I bought mussels at the fish store; they were €3.60 euros for a kilo. That is cheaper than Sevilla, where I found them for €5.50 euros per kilo. I did the grocery shopping before noon today.
Earlier this morning Freddie and I walked up to the other meat store that Jose had told us about last night. He claimed it was better than the one near the market that we have been using. So Freddie and I walked there today. It was farther than we had thought, but Freddie did well. I bought some chicken and some beef and some semi-curado Spanish cheese there, but we haven’t tried them yet. To me this meat store didn’t look any better than the other carniceria next to the small and only supermarket in Palmar. The other markets are small convenience stores set up for the beach tourists.
Afterwards, I came home to put the meat and cheese away and Freddie continued on towards the Kotadalu, where he wanted to eat breakfast. He would order for me and then I would meet him there.
I grabbed the red shopping cart, which I had brought down on my last trip from Sevilla, and I quickly walked to the Kota, as the locals call it here. Freddie and I had coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. I ate thin sliced Spanish jamon and a piece of Freddie’s tomato. Freddie ate fried eggs with Spanish bacon and toast. Then I took our red shopping cart up to the market and got vegetables, toilet paper, yogurt and more. After that I went to the fish market and found the mussels. A kilo will feed us both.
On the way home, I stopped at the Kota to tell Freddie that I had to get the mussels in the refrigerator very quickly. I had the key so I zoomed home. Freddie ambled in a short while later. His independence grows almost daily.
The house we moved to yesterday has a kitchen divided from the living room by an oval arch, an open bar and an arched door-less doorway.
Right now we are sitting in the living room. The electric fan we hauled from Sevilla is keeping us cool. Freddie is practicing his guitar. He is seated at the table in a supportive wooden chair.
I am at the other side of the table writing. By the wall with the window to the front, to my left, the brown leather couch has already filled with purses, hats, and Freddie’s guitar case. We have a small green yard with a wrought iron gate.
A giant tree shades both the yard and the house.
We have just decided that it is time for the beach, so we will check it out. I will continue to write sometime later. This is our first day in this new house. Yesterday was spent unpacking and semi organizing. Then we slept for over four hours in the heat of the day. Today the weather has cooled a little so now it is time for the beach.
It got hot again. I got side tracked at Hector’s and Freddie went to the beach in the heat. When he got back to Hector’s, Hector made him take a cold shower in his outdoor shower on his porch. We didn’t want Freddie to get sunstroke. And he didn’t.
Hector and I got into a discussion on how to cook mussels and he came over to our house, which is practically next door, and cooked fantastic mussels, with white wine, garlic, lemon, tomatoes, green Spanish long peppers, onions and salt. We ate the broth with mussel shells. Then Sabina, a young German blues/jazz singer, stopped by and helped us finish the broth. Sabina is also a schoolteacher in Germany, where she teaches Spanish and Political Science.
We ate outside on the white plastic table that Hector had moved into the shade.
The yard is pleasant and somewhat private. Its grass is soft and green. A clothesline hangs in one corner and the big tree offers shade.
Just after we finished eating, Cihtli and Ethan stopped by with Ethan’s parents, Sally and Ken, on their way back from another Cadiz beach. We took them up to the Lazotea clubhouse to show them how nice this community is here.
They said that they just had enough time for a hug and kisses, but they did stay a little longer. As always, it was great to see them.
Tonight, after Cihtli and Ethan left, Freddie and I walked straight out our door, crossed the road, and continued down a small sand trail to the beach just before sunset, at 9:30 PM. We took a quick dip in the calm ocean and we watched the sun set. Then we went back to the house.
I took the garbage out and got side tracked with Hector and Sabina, when I passed Hector’s porch on the way to the large green dumpster by the side of the road. Hector’s porch curtains were open and he and Sabina looked like a theater production.
Sabina sang some jazzy blues and I danced. Hector had me get up on the wall and dance. Sabina, who looks much younger, will celebrate her thirty-third birthday on Monday and she has asked me to dance as a birthday present. She will sing. It is not Flamenco, but it is fun! I am honored.
We love this new house, with its wrought iron gate and shady, grassy yard.
July 5, 2010
The levante winds have been here for more than their usual four days. The levante blows from Africa, bringing the desert heat and the African insects. When the wind is strong, it whips the sand on the beach and stirs the waves. The wind-swept sand smashes against us, sticking to our suntan lotioned bodies and eventual drives us from the beach. But when the wind is quieter, the sea is smooth and we spend hours at the beach and in the prickly clear water.
Our close friends Paco Fernandez, his wife Pilar, and daughter Soleá have been visiting us here since Friday.
Paco and Freddie do palmas and I dance. Sometimes Paco sings. The other night noise from the nearby bar was electrified and started to bother us. I found a thick board and put on my dance shoes and began to dance. It was fun. Then Freddie started to play the pennywhistle and I danced Tango and Bulerías to it. Freddie added a rattle to the music, putting its handle between his toes. Paco got the camera and had us do it again so he could video us. Unfortunately the video card in the camera was defective and the recording didn’t get saved. But the recording is still saved in our memories.
Yesterday our friends Teresa (and her dog Ninya), Rina and her daughter Akhana drove down to visit us. Rina had decided that she wanted to see us one more time before they returned to Atlanta. We meet each summer in Sevilla and really enjoy each other’s company. We were so happy that they decided to make the trip down here.
They arrived later than intended, but we still had time to feed them and to take them to the beach. It was the first time that Ninya, the little dog, had seen the ocean. She was enchanted, but was nervous at first when Teresa was in the water.
Afterwards we all went to the Lazotea
and then went out to eat at “the Boat”. That is the el Cortijillo number two (really called La Vikinga), which is only separated from the “shack” el Cortijillo by Jose’s house. Jose, the owner, is also a friend (thanks to Hector). He came to our table and stayed and chatted for a while. Jose’s aunt is our landlady.
Teresa, Rina and Akhana enjoyed meeting Paco and family (and visa versa) and everyone had fun. Akhana, who is fifteen, and Soleá who is eleven, got along wonderfully and were exchanging Spanish and English words. Akhana speaks some Spanish and Soleá is studying English in school and is crazy about American pop music. She likes to sing it in English as I have mentioned before.
Later we all looked at a demo of Paco’s new Flamenco guitar instructional DVD. It will be coming out in October or November and will be accompanied by a book. It has English subtitles. He goes through guitar instruction in depth, on many levels, and he includes beginner through advanced. This DVD is something that I recommend to every Flamenco guitar student. It includes elements of posture, hand and back position, compás, etc. Paco has a great visual compás accent element to accompany his recorded compositions, which are all written in tablature as well. He has been working on it for a year. A company in Holland, la Sonanta, is producing it.
Hector and one of his exquisitely beautiful daughters stopped by for a brief visit. Hector loves the Flamenco rhythms. He has been busy with family and summer friends and we have not seen him as much as usual. I still hope that Hector will get to hear Paco’s guitar.
Teresa, Rina and Akhana left about one AM.
We were all having so much fun that we didn’t want them to leave.
Paco and family plan to leave tomorrow.
Then Thursday Jill, Clara, Nandi and hopefully David too will come for two days. We haven’t seen David, Clara and Nandi yet this year. They live in Madrid and move to Jerez for the summer after Nandi’s school lets out. David and Freddie have been close friends since they were 17 years old.
Saturday Luis Peña and Javier Heredia plan to come. All our friends have to come here to see us now! Lakshmi is also planning a trip and Teresa may come again with her.
It is fun to have our friends visit and it is then that we realize how we have also gained another community here at the beach as well.
Today, while we were eating lunch at the el Cortijillo, Jose was saying that he thought that Freddie should stay here and continue to recuperate. He then told us that he had an older friend who was like a father to him. His friend helped him to build the Cortijillo (his restaurant). Then his friend had a stroke and Jose was the one who cared for him. Jose is very impressed with Freddie’s recovery.
We would love to spend more time here and are starting to dream already about next year’s Spain trip.
Our friend and dance student, Nancy, wrote that Sevilla was 115 degrees the other day and that she was one of the few people who dared to venture outside. We are sure glad to be here at the beach. We remember how hot Sevilla can be. Here the warm wind is blowing the towels on the clothesline. The yellow walls that surround the garden shield us from the wind and the big tree shields us from the sun. I am sitting outside at the white plastic table writing. Freddie is sitting on his beach chair in the doorway. He just woke up from a siesta. Paco and family are back at the beach getting as much of it as possible. They leave tomorrow night.
Tuesday July 6, 2010
Last night we celebrated Sabina’s thirty-third birthday at the Viva la Pepa bar.
Sabina, who is German, cooked wonderful German food and Hector made her a delicious cheesecake.
I danced for her, but not enough. There were lots of friends and we met new people.
And that is where we finally got to meet Norbert.
Of course he is a friend of Hector’s and we have heard about him. Sometimes a little red helicopter/biplane flies low overhead and buzzes Hector’s house. That is Norbert. He almost lives in the air.
Norbert says that he learned to fly from the birds. He flies because in the air he feels free. He swoops down almost touching the ocean, like the birds, and then lets the air currents bring him up again. He lives his dream, in a caravan (trailer) at the small airport in Medina, (another small town near here). He loves living at the airport. He takes people flying for a living and also teaches flying.
Of course Norbert invited us to go flying so I pinned him down to the next day. Paco was wild to fly and Freddie wanted to also. So this morning we all piled into Paco’s car and drove to a specific dirt road in a sunflower field where Norbert has prior permission to land. We heard the noise of the plane and there was Norbert.
Paco went first, Freddie second,
and I third.
There is only enough space for one passenger at a time in this open, antique-looking helicopter. The weather got progressively windier but the plane is made for all weather conditions.
Pilar and Soleá opted for the camera shoot, but did not actually fly.
We had a wonderful experience and took photos and videoed. Now we have another new and interesting friend.
Paco and family left that evening for Sevilla, happy and content and a little more suntanned in spite of the levante.
July 9, 2010 Friday
The levante finally ended yesterday. Wednesday we had rain and overcast and only walked on the beach in the morning. Yesterday was also somewhat overcast but the beach was great. The waves were mild and we spent a lot of time in the water. When I got cold, Freddie stayed in the ocean and I stood guard on the shore. He can now easily duck under waves and get up if knocked down. He floats on his back without effort and can move his arms and legs from there. He is so much more relaxed in the sea now than he was when we arrived here this year.
Monday we were eating tapas in the el Cortijillo bar next to our house with Paco, Pilar, and Soleá. A Romani accordion player passed through on his rounds and started to play his music. There are many Romani musicians who immigrate to Spain nowadays. They pass through all the tourist areas playing music and passing a hat. This man was good. His old accordion was worn and had a look of magic about it. His music made me dance. It was wonderful. My old belly dancing came out in my dancing.
Tuesday we were at the sister restaurant, (separated from el Cortijillo only by the owner’s little house) locally called the Boat, officially called La Vikinga. The Romani man came again and I started to dance.
Paco ran back to the house and grabbed a camera and returned to video it! I will post it when I get to some good Internet. The modem I am using now is not strong enough! But at least we can usually get email.
Thursday Freddie and I went to the beach and stopped by the Boat for a drink on our way home. The Romani man happened by and Freddie videoed me again. Luckily I had my camera in my beach bag. I will post this one too, when I can.
The Romani man is missing two front teeth.
At first I thought he was an old man, but now that I have seen him more times I think he must be in his forties, not his sixties! His face is not that wrinkled.
Today is overcast again but there is no wind. Wednesday, the day our gmail finally came back, we received an email from our friends Marcellus and Laura Barnes, whom we had planned to meet in Puerto Rico during our stopover on the way home. They said that they had changed their plans to coincide with ours, but the dates they sent will just miss our dates! They leave around noon on the 14th and we arrive at 7:00 PM that night! We are so sad.
We hadn’t tried to extend our stay here because we wanted to see them, and now it looks like we will miss them!
July 9, 2010 Friday evening
We called Puerto Rico today and found out that Marcellus and Laura don’t leave until the 17th, (not the 14th as I had thought) so we do get to see them after all. We are happy again.
Freddie and I went to the beach in the early afternoon today and went swimming several times, but the water was rougher than it looked and Freddie’s balance wasn’t good today. So we didn’t stay in as long or swim as much. And it was still lovely.
We are planning to leave here on Sunday evening, but as yet we have not figured out how! The Internet is slow today but when it works our gmail works with it. But sometimes even the email moves like mud.
For a while now, I have wanted to write the story of when Hector and Stephanie met. Last year, Stephanie told me how she finally met Hector. She was in a little cove at the beach, quietly standing on a hidden rock in the water. Near her she saw a man and his three beautiful children. The boy asked his father about the girl in the water, noticing how tall she looked. They were speaking about Stephanie in English, assuming that no one could understand. Stephanie, with her brown skin and dark hair, looked exotically Spanish to them.
Finally Stephanie turned to them and said, in English, “It is because I am standing on a rock,” They nearly fell over with surprise at hearing her speak English.
This year Hector repeated the same story to me, saying that Stephanie looked like a mermaid there, standing tall in the water. He said that the experience was very magical for him.
Hector invites magical experiences. He is one of the most positive and loving people I have met. (Freddie is another one, of course). I think Hector’s warm heart is what makes both men and women alike open their hearts to him. He has many friends. And I have seen him ready to drop anything to help a friend in need. Freddie and I are both very happy to know him.
The community here is also warm and open. We just melted right in. It will be hard to leave this Sunday, and of course we are not at all packed up here or in Sevilla.
Our planned guests could not make it at the last minute, so we are enjoying some peace and quiet in these few days. We may have people coming tonight or tomorrow, though. I have already traded photos with my friends at the Lazotea. I am slowly preparing myself for our next adventures.
July 10, 2010 Saturday
Our time here is almost done for the year. Last night Lakshmi, Jose and Nancy drove down from Sevilla and arrived about three AM. Earlier last night I danced to a quasi Flamenco group at the Boat and everyone love it.
This morning Freddie and I got up early. We had been invited to Hector’s to eat oysters, but Hector was still asleep. He plans to continue painting Gila’s house today and he expected to leave for there about 10:30, but even the best-laid plans go awry.
Gila’s 83-year old husband Klaus had to go back to Germany to get medical care and is in the hospital there. I have mentioned that they are both writers. He insisted on finishing his manuscript before going to the hospital here in Spain. Although he had trouble breathing and walking, they told him that he had to wait for a month because no one got sick in the summer and they didn’t have the staff or beds. So Klaus went to Germany for “real” medical care.
Gila, with her gray-blond hair, is thin and energetic like a bird. Gila will celebrate her 70th birthday a few days after we leave. She says that her life is so full that she feels like she has lived many lives in this lifetime. Gila is also German and leads a Bohemian artist’s life style here in Palmar. She and Klaus have a beautiful home on the ocean here.
Since Hector was still asleep this morning, Freddie and I walked on the beach and swam in the placid water. The weekend hoards of people were still asleep and the beach was barely populated.
When we returned to the house Nancy was up and checking her email with our USB plug-in travel modem.
The three of us decided to go have breakfast at the Kotadalu, the only good breakfast place here. On the way over, we saw movement at Hector’s and stopped in. So we ended up eating the oysters and drinking Cava champagne with orange juice with Hector after all.
To make this happen, I had to hop on Hector’s bike and ride to Gila’s to get the Cava, because both Hector and Lazotea were out. (Hector loves Cava, and he serves it regularly to his personal guests who visit his newly finished porch.)
It was a long ride, because Hector’s rusted-on bicycle seat is way too high for me to sit on, so I was pedaling and standing the whole time. The cars were bringing the beach goers by then and the street was filled with people looking for parking.
When I returned, Hector was still shucking the oysters, which he had ordered from a fisherman friend.
They had arrived Thursday night and he had generously served them to whoever was at Lazotea, but luckily he had held some back for himself. As he said, he didn’t feel like shucking the whole case at one time.
After we finished the oysters Lakshmi joined us. She and Nancy will stay through tomorrow. I like showing them the wonderful community here in Palmar.
We all went to the beach, of course, today and soaked in the hot sun. The waves started out smooth but later turned choppy. I was glad that Freddie and I had swum this morning when it was so calm and inviting. Of course we swam again and again even though the waves were much rougher.
Now I have eaten and showered and am thinking about a nap. I am also in the process of realizing that we leave here tomorrow.
As I look around this house, thinking of how we will pack it up, I see the beautiful blue necklace that Susana gave me in Sevilla. She brought it to Angelita’s class on my second to last day. She said that it reminded her of my turquoise blue skirt and that I should wear that one the next day. I wore it, but Susana wasn’t in class. I still had the necklace on when I left for the beach in such a hurry in order to catch the ride with Marisa.
I have been practicing Angelita’s Tango and some of her Bulería whenever I have a chance. I often use the mirror on Lazotea.
The night before last I was up there, on the azotea, and I was a little bored so I started to practice Angelita’s Tango. I moved slowly, trying out different styles with the moves. The music was pop music, but it was in four-four rhythm so that is why I chose Tango.
Later, when Hector had brought out the oysters, I was talking to some people who were lounging on one of the corner couches. They told me that they had watched me practicing and that they had loved it. One man told me to continue doing just what I do and to not change. He loved the feeling in my dancing. I loved hearing him tell me this, especially since I wasn’t paying attention to anyone else while I was dancing!
Tomorrow we will leave this beautiful and magical beach and the wonderful community here. A friend will take our suitcases to Sevilla when he leaves earlier. We plan to take the 9:25 PM bus, which arrives at Sevilla at midnight, if a ride doesn’t magically materialize. Time has gone so quickly. We don’t feel ready to leave, but we look forward to seeing friends in Puerto Rico on the way home.
July 13, 2010
Sunday night Spain won the world cup for the first time, while we were still on the bus to Sevilla. The bus driver had the radio on, of course. When we arrived a few minutes later, the streets were filled with honking cars, people waving Spanish flags, and singing and dancing in the streets. We were in the right place at the right time to witness this emotional and incredible Spanish celebration of their first World Cup victory.
***
Hector's Porch Construction. Hector and Freddie at work.
It is hot. The levante winds from the African desert have been here, mildly. While the winds are not whipping the sand up, as they easily can, the weather has been scorching hot, even here at the beach.
Josh, Regina y Antonia
Antonia, Freddie, Regina, Josh, Rafa
Antonia, Freddie, Marianna, Josh, Rafa
But the sea is almost smooth; the tiny waves that do roll and break have little force. The water felt prickly with the cold contrast to the day. Freddie was able to float on his back and swim a few strokes on his stomach. After the beach we all visited the clubhouse.
Gila giving Freddie a reflexology treatment.
Marianna y Freddie when the weather was still cold.
Hector’s clubhouse is such a great meeting and hanging out place. It is always mellow and friendly and it has a magical quality. Magical things happen at this Club Social (private social club), as if in a dream. I haven’t yet written enough about the two powerful women who run it, Mar and Aspi.
Maria Mar wears her long brownish hair in many small braids, usually capped with a bandana.
Mar & Aspi
Two silver jewels adorn her right eyebrow, pierced onto either side of the outer end of the eyebrow.
Mar
Mar
Always on her feet are black, very high-heeled espadrilles, Spanish shoes made out of canvas and what feels like cork. They often tie up with little ribbons, like hers do. On her legs Mar usually wears knee-length tights and over that she wears her long blouses. (Appropriate modifications happen in the heat of the summer, of course.) Her blue eyes, looking out through her square-shaped face, are kind. Mar has a lot of energy and a wonderful way of making you feel comfortable and cared for.
Mar y Hector discussing business.
Mar y Marianna
Last night Freddie and I came up late and happened to catch a slide show of Mar’s photographs that they were watching on a computer. The many beautiful photos were artfully composed and they captured the mood of this space and place perfectly. Mar is very gifted with her photography. Aspi has taken some of the photos too, so I guess they are both gifted photographers.
Mar y Marianna.
My high heel
Marianna
Mar, like her business partner and good friend Aspi, is also a wonderful cook. Both Mar and Aspi make gazpacho without bread so that I can drink it. The gazpacho is refreshing and invigorating and I love it. I appreciate both Mar and Aspi’s caring and their attention to detail as well as their loving smiles and giving and fun personalities.
Raquel y Aspi
Aspi also makes a carne con tomate (meat cooked in tomato sauce) that is delicious and has only ingredients I can eat in it. Aspi has upper-back length brown hair and animated brown eyes. She usually dresses in her bathing suit with a light shirt thrown over that.
Aspi
Mar y Aspi
Of course I cook at home too. Today I bought mussels at the fish store; they were €3.60 euros for a kilo. That is cheaper than Sevilla, where I found them for €5.50 euros per kilo. I did the grocery shopping before noon today.
Earlier this morning Freddie and I walked up to the other meat store that Jose had told us about last night. He claimed it was better than the one near the market that we have been using. So Freddie and I walked there today. It was farther than we had thought, but Freddie did well. I bought some chicken and some beef and some semi-curado Spanish cheese there, but we haven’t tried them yet. To me this meat store didn’t look any better than the other carniceria next to the small and only supermarket in Palmar. The other markets are small convenience stores set up for the beach tourists.
Marianna
Afterwards, I came home to put the meat and cheese away and Freddie continued on towards the Kotadalu, where he wanted to eat breakfast. He would order for me and then I would meet him there.
I grabbed the red shopping cart, which I had brought down on my last trip from Sevilla, and I quickly walked to the Kota, as the locals call it here. Freddie and I had coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. I ate thin sliced Spanish jamon and a piece of Freddie’s tomato. Freddie ate fried eggs with Spanish bacon and toast. Then I took our red shopping cart up to the market and got vegetables, toilet paper, yogurt and more. After that I went to the fish market and found the mussels. A kilo will feed us both.
On the way home, I stopped at the Kota to tell Freddie that I had to get the mussels in the refrigerator very quickly. I had the key so I zoomed home. Freddie ambled in a short while later. His independence grows almost daily.
The house we moved to yesterday has a kitchen divided from the living room by an oval arch, an open bar and an arched door-less doorway.
Looking in through the front door
Looking in through the front door
I am at the other side of the table writing. By the wall with the window to the front, to my left, the brown leather couch has already filled with purses, hats, and Freddie’s guitar case. We have a small green yard with a wrought iron gate.
Freddie
Our yard
Our porch
We have just decided that it is time for the beach, so we will check it out. I will continue to write sometime later. This is our first day in this new house. Yesterday was spent unpacking and semi organizing. Then we slept for over four hours in the heat of the day. Today the weather has cooled a little so now it is time for the beach.
Marianna ready for the beach again.
Freddie enjoying the beach
It got hot again. I got side tracked at Hector’s and Freddie went to the beach in the heat. When he got back to Hector’s, Hector made him take a cold shower in his outdoor shower on his porch. We didn’t want Freddie to get sunstroke. And he didn’t.
Hector and I got into a discussion on how to cook mussels and he came over to our house, which is practically next door, and cooked fantastic mussels, with white wine, garlic, lemon, tomatoes, green Spanish long peppers, onions and salt. We ate the broth with mussel shells. Then Sabina, a young German blues/jazz singer, stopped by and helped us finish the broth. Sabina is also a schoolteacher in Germany, where she teaches Spanish and Political Science.
We ate outside on the white plastic table that Hector had moved into the shade.
Freddie drinking coffee in our yard
Just after we finished eating, Cihtli and Ethan stopped by with Ethan’s parents, Sally and Ken, on their way back from another Cadiz beach. We took them up to the Lazotea clubhouse to show them how nice this community is here.
Sally and Ken
Ethan and Freddie
Cihtli
Tonight, after Cihtli and Ethan left, Freddie and I walked straight out our door, crossed the road, and continued down a small sand trail to the beach just before sunset, at 9:30 PM. We took a quick dip in the calm ocean and we watched the sun set. Then we went back to the house.
Lazotea sunset
I took the garbage out and got side tracked with Hector and Sabina, when I passed Hector’s porch on the way to the large green dumpster by the side of the road. Hector’s porch curtains were open and he and Sabina looked like a theater production.
Hector & Sabina
We love this new house, with its wrought iron gate and shady, grassy yard.
July 5, 2010
The levante winds have been here for more than their usual four days. The levante blows from Africa, bringing the desert heat and the African insects. When the wind is strong, it whips the sand on the beach and stirs the waves. The wind-swept sand smashes against us, sticking to our suntan lotioned bodies and eventual drives us from the beach. But when the wind is quieter, the sea is smooth and we spend hours at the beach and in the prickly clear water.
Our close friends Paco Fernandez, his wife Pilar, and daughter Soleá have been visiting us here since Friday.
Pilar and Freddie at Sabina's birthday party.
Pilar y Paco at Sabina's birthday party.
Yesterday our friends Teresa (and her dog Ninya), Rina and her daughter Akhana drove down to visit us. Rina had decided that she wanted to see us one more time before they returned to Atlanta. We meet each summer in Sevilla and really enjoy each other’s company. We were so happy that they decided to make the trip down here.
They arrived later than intended, but we still had time to feed them and to take them to the beach. It was the first time that Ninya, the little dog, had seen the ocean. She was enchanted, but was nervous at first when Teresa was in the water.
Lazotea, playa el Palmar
Afterwards we all went to the Lazotea
Lazotea, playa el Palmar
Teresa, Rina and Akhana enjoyed meeting Paco and family (and visa versa) and everyone had fun. Akhana, who is fifteen, and Soleá who is eleven, got along wonderfully and were exchanging Spanish and English words. Akhana speaks some Spanish and Soleá is studying English in school and is crazy about American pop music. She likes to sing it in English as I have mentioned before.
Later we all looked at a demo of Paco’s new Flamenco guitar instructional DVD. It will be coming out in October or November and will be accompanied by a book. It has English subtitles. He goes through guitar instruction in depth, on many levels, and he includes beginner through advanced. This DVD is something that I recommend to every Flamenco guitar student. It includes elements of posture, hand and back position, compás, etc. Paco has a great visual compás accent element to accompany his recorded compositions, which are all written in tablature as well. He has been working on it for a year. A company in Holland, la Sonanta, is producing it.
Paco Fernandez watching Teresa playing Freddie's guitar
Hector and one of his exquisitely beautiful daughters stopped by for a brief visit. Hector loves the Flamenco rhythms. He has been busy with family and summer friends and we have not seen him as much as usual. I still hope that Hector will get to hear Paco’s guitar.
Teresa, Rina and Akhana left about one AM.
Freddie and Ninya (dog) sleeping
Paco and family plan to leave tomorrow.
Paco and his 11 year old daughter Soleá.
Paco y su hija de 11 años, Soleá.
Paco y su hija de 11 años, Soleá.
Pilar Dominguez, Paco's wife.
Saturday Luis Peña and Javier Heredia plan to come. All our friends have to come here to see us now! Lakshmi is also planning a trip and Teresa may come again with her.
It is fun to have our friends visit and it is then that we realize how we have also gained another community here at the beach as well.
Today, while we were eating lunch at the el Cortijillo, Jose was saying that he thought that Freddie should stay here and continue to recuperate. He then told us that he had an older friend who was like a father to him. His friend helped him to build the Cortijillo (his restaurant). Then his friend had a stroke and Jose was the one who cared for him. Jose is very impressed with Freddie’s recovery.
Freddie & Jose
Our friend and dance student, Nancy, wrote that Sevilla was 115 degrees the other day and that she was one of the few people who dared to venture outside. We are sure glad to be here at the beach. We remember how hot Sevilla can be. Here the warm wind is blowing the towels on the clothesline. The yellow walls that surround the garden shield us from the wind and the big tree shields us from the sun. I am sitting outside at the white plastic table writing. Freddie is sitting on his beach chair in the doorway. He just woke up from a siesta. Paco and family are back at the beach getting as much of it as possible. They leave tomorrow night.
Tuesday July 6, 2010
Last night we celebrated Sabina’s thirty-third birthday at the Viva la Pepa bar.
Sabina's birthday party
Hector presenting the incredible cheese cake he made for Sabina's birthday.
Hector and Sabina. Sabina serving Hector a piece of the cake he made.
Hector and Sabina.
And that is where we finally got to meet Norbert.
Freddie and Norbert
Norbert says that he learned to fly from the birds. He flies because in the air he feels free. He swoops down almost touching the ocean, like the birds, and then lets the air currents bring him up again. He lives his dream, in a caravan (trailer) at the small airport in Medina, (another small town near here). He loves living at the airport. He takes people flying for a living and also teaches flying.
Of course Norbert invited us to go flying so I pinned him down to the next day. Paco was wild to fly and Freddie wanted to also. So this morning we all piled into Paco’s car and drove to a specific dirt road in a sunflower field where Norbert has prior permission to land. We heard the noise of the plane and there was Norbert.
Plane lands
Norbert and Freddie
I am back from flying with the birds.
Pilar and Soleá opted for the camera shoot, but did not actually fly.
Posing
Posing
Posing
Posing
Paco and family left that evening for Sevilla, happy and content and a little more suntanned in spite of the levante.
July 9, 2010 Friday
The levante finally ended yesterday. Wednesday we had rain and overcast and only walked on the beach in the morning. Yesterday was also somewhat overcast but the beach was great. The waves were mild and we spent a lot of time in the water. When I got cold, Freddie stayed in the ocean and I stood guard on the shore. He can now easily duck under waves and get up if knocked down. He floats on his back without effort and can move his arms and legs from there. He is so much more relaxed in the sea now than he was when we arrived here this year.
Monday we were eating tapas in the el Cortijillo bar next to our house with Paco, Pilar, and Soleá. A Romani accordion player passed through on his rounds and started to play his music. There are many Romani musicians who immigrate to Spain nowadays. They pass through all the tourist areas playing music and passing a hat. This man was good. His old accordion was worn and had a look of magic about it. His music made me dance. It was wonderful. My old belly dancing came out in my dancing.
Freddie y hombre Romani con su accordion.
Tuesday we were at the sister restaurant, (separated from el Cortijillo only by the owner’s little house) locally called the Boat, officially called La Vikinga. The Romani man came again and I started to dance.
Marianna y hombre Romani con su accordion, después de balando.
Thursday Freddie and I went to the beach and stopped by the Boat for a drink on our way home. The Romani man happened by and Freddie videoed me again. Luckily I had my camera in my beach bag. I will post this one too, when I can.
The Romani man is missing two front teeth.
Freddie y hombre Romani con su accordion.
Marianna y hombre Romani con su accordion después de bailar.
Today is overcast again but there is no wind. Wednesday, the day our gmail finally came back, we received an email from our friends Marcellus and Laura Barnes, whom we had planned to meet in Puerto Rico during our stopover on the way home. They said that they had changed their plans to coincide with ours, but the dates they sent will just miss our dates! They leave around noon on the 14th and we arrive at 7:00 PM that night! We are so sad.
We hadn’t tried to extend our stay here because we wanted to see them, and now it looks like we will miss them!
July 9, 2010 Friday evening
We called Puerto Rico today and found out that Marcellus and Laura don’t leave until the 17th, (not the 14th as I had thought) so we do get to see them after all. We are happy again.
Freddie and I went to the beach in the early afternoon today and went swimming several times, but the water was rougher than it looked and Freddie’s balance wasn’t good today. So we didn’t stay in as long or swim as much. And it was still lovely.
We are planning to leave here on Sunday evening, but as yet we have not figured out how! The Internet is slow today but when it works our gmail works with it. But sometimes even the email moves like mud.
Our House
For a while now, I have wanted to write the story of when Hector and Stephanie met. Last year, Stephanie told me how she finally met Hector. She was in a little cove at the beach, quietly standing on a hidden rock in the water. Near her she saw a man and his three beautiful children. The boy asked his father about the girl in the water, noticing how tall she looked. They were speaking about Stephanie in English, assuming that no one could understand. Stephanie, with her brown skin and dark hair, looked exotically Spanish to them.
Finally Stephanie turned to them and said, in English, “It is because I am standing on a rock,” They nearly fell over with surprise at hearing her speak English.
This year Hector repeated the same story to me, saying that Stephanie looked like a mermaid there, standing tall in the water. He said that the experience was very magical for him.
Hector invites magical experiences. He is one of the most positive and loving people I have met. (Freddie is another one, of course). I think Hector’s warm heart is what makes both men and women alike open their hearts to him. He has many friends. And I have seen him ready to drop anything to help a friend in need. Freddie and I are both very happy to know him.
The community here is also warm and open. We just melted right in. It will be hard to leave this Sunday, and of course we are not at all packed up here or in Sevilla.
Our planned guests could not make it at the last minute, so we are enjoying some peace and quiet in these few days. We may have people coming tonight or tomorrow, though. I have already traded photos with my friends at the Lazotea. I am slowly preparing myself for our next adventures.
Freddie and Marianna
July 10, 2010 Saturday
Our time here is almost done for the year. Last night Lakshmi, Jose and Nancy drove down from Sevilla and arrived about three AM. Earlier last night I danced to a quasi Flamenco group at the Boat and everyone love it.
This morning Freddie and I got up early. We had been invited to Hector’s to eat oysters, but Hector was still asleep. He plans to continue painting Gila’s house today and he expected to leave for there about 10:30, but even the best-laid plans go awry.
Gila’s 83-year old husband Klaus had to go back to Germany to get medical care and is in the hospital there. I have mentioned that they are both writers. He insisted on finishing his manuscript before going to the hospital here in Spain. Although he had trouble breathing and walking, they told him that he had to wait for a month because no one got sick in the summer and they didn’t have the staff or beds. So Klaus went to Germany for “real” medical care.
Gila, with her gray-blond hair, is thin and energetic like a bird. Gila will celebrate her 70th birthday a few days after we leave. She says that her life is so full that she feels like she has lived many lives in this lifetime. Gila is also German and leads a Bohemian artist’s life style here in Palmar. She and Klaus have a beautiful home on the ocean here.
Since Hector was still asleep this morning, Freddie and I walked on the beach and swam in the placid water. The weekend hoards of people were still asleep and the beach was barely populated.
Freddie after a morning swim
Nancy checking her email.
To make this happen, I had to hop on Hector’s bike and ride to Gila’s to get the Cava, because both Hector and Lazotea were out. (Hector loves Cava, and he serves it regularly to his personal guests who visit his newly finished porch.)
Hector's porch
It was a long ride, because Hector’s rusted-on bicycle seat is way too high for me to sit on, so I was pedaling and standing the whole time. The cars were bringing the beach goers by then and the street was filled with people looking for parking.
When I returned, Hector was still shucking the oysters, which he had ordered from a fisherman friend.
Hector shucking oysters
The oysters are shucked
After we finished the oysters Lakshmi joined us. She and Nancy will stay through tomorrow. I like showing them the wonderful community here in Palmar.
Marianna & Sabina
Jose & Marianna
Hector & Sabina at the Boat
Marianna & Hector at the Boat
Hector, Gila, Sabina, Pili at Sabina's birthday party.
Pili and Mercedes at Sabina's birthday party.
Mercedes y Sabina
Marisa y Freddie
Pili (Palmar) and Freddie at Sabina's birthday party.
Pili (Palmar) and Freddie at Sabina's birthday party.
Lazotea Community
We all went to the beach, of course, today and soaked in the hot sun. The waves started out smooth but later turned choppy. I was glad that Freddie and I had swum this morning when it was so calm and inviting. Of course we swam again and again even though the waves were much rougher.
Nancy & Freddie lunch on our last Palmar day.
Now I have eaten and showered and am thinking about a nap. I am also in the process of realizing that we leave here tomorrow.
As I look around this house, thinking of how we will pack it up, I see the beautiful blue necklace that Susana gave me in Sevilla. She brought it to Angelita’s class on my second to last day. She said that it reminded her of my turquoise blue skirt and that I should wear that one the next day. I wore it, but Susana wasn’t in class. I still had the necklace on when I left for the beach in such a hurry in order to catch the ride with Marisa.
I have been practicing Angelita’s Tango and some of her Bulería whenever I have a chance. I often use the mirror on Lazotea.
The night before last I was up there, on the azotea, and I was a little bored so I started to practice Angelita’s Tango. I moved slowly, trying out different styles with the moves. The music was pop music, but it was in four-four rhythm so that is why I chose Tango.
Later, when Hector had brought out the oysters, I was talking to some people who were lounging on one of the corner couches. They told me that they had watched me practicing and that they had loved it. One man told me to continue doing just what I do and to not change. He loved the feeling in my dancing. I loved hearing him tell me this, especially since I wasn’t paying attention to anyone else while I was dancing!
Hector carrying a stump he will use for his outdoor shower chair.
Tomorrow we will leave this beautiful and magical beach and the wonderful community here. A friend will take our suitcases to Sevilla when he leaves earlier. We plan to take the 9:25 PM bus, which arrives at Sevilla at midnight, if a ride doesn’t magically materialize. Time has gone so quickly. We don’t feel ready to leave, but we look forward to seeing friends in Puerto Rico on the way home.
July 13, 2010
Sunday night Spain won the world cup for the first time, while we were still on the bus to Sevilla. The bus driver had the radio on, of course. When we arrived a few minutes later, the streets were filled with honking cars, people waving Spanish flags, and singing and dancing in the streets. We were in the right place at the right time to witness this emotional and incredible Spanish celebration of their first World Cup victory.
***
Hector's Porch Construction. Hector and Freddie at work.
Porch Construction
Working on Hector's porch
Freddie working on Hector's porch
Hector working on his porch
Written by Marianna
11. Sevilla & the beach – June 21-28, 2010 Summer Solstice
June 21, 2010, Monday
Again, so much has happened. Last Friday night I took the train to Jerez and met Freddie, Stephanie and Javi there. After tapas, we went to a benefit for a new women’s Peña, Peña Alegría Flamenca. Chiqui de Jerez, Stephanie’s singing teacher, had invited Stephanie, and us through Stephanie. Chiqui is recovering from her moto accident. One of her legs is still very swollen and she has a hard time seeing out of one eye. Stephanie says that Chiqui is healing amazingly quickly.
Chiqui y Stephanie
We didn’t know exactly what to expect. We parked fairly far away but Freddie walked well all the way there. He certainly is improving and his new strength surprises me.
Finally, after walking down a maze of narrow Jerez streets we entered a building and emerged into a large space with a stage and lots of chairs. I later found out that it was an outdoor movie theater. The only tourists or foreigners that I saw were some Japanese men with wonderful cameras.
Freddie and I found a stone bench on the side, up in front to sit on. The show was incredible, the best I have seen all year. As the night wore on, Freddie and I grabbed some front row seats. Chiqui was next to us, playing with her seven-month old niece. Her twin sisters were in back of her. Chiqui was dancing the baby to the music. The baby moved her hands to the music and Chiqui moved her feet. How could the baby not grow up knowing Flamenco?
Chiqui and Niece
Chiqui y Sobrina
Chiqui y Sobrina
Then Chiqui showed us a video on her mobile phone of a year-and-a-half year old girl dancing Bulerías. It was amazing. Later that night that same little girl, now three, danced on the stage and did beautifully. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it.
Chiqui and Niece
Chiqui y Sobrina
Chiqui y Sobrina
Some of the other performers included Dolores Agujetas,
Dolores Agujetas
Dolores Agujetas y Moraito
Singer
Singer with Moraito
Fiesta
We finally arrived back at the beach around four in the morning! Of course we slept late the next day. It was cold but Freddie and I went to the beach for a while and lay in the sand. We walked in the water, but I didn’t want to go all the way in because the temperature outside was cold and there was a cold wind. How unusual for late June.
Freddie has been spending a lot of time here helping Hector remodel his porch area. They are enjoying each other’s company. Freddie is also enjoying being able to work and be useful! He walks and talks better every day. Freddie once said they are like father and son, but Hector says that they are more like brothers. They both have that strong charisma and heart energy. And they both love people.
Freddie and Hector
Later that evening Hector gave me a wonderful massage. Sunday, just before I left, he said that he would give Freddie one that night after they finished painting the porch.
Hector found me a new ride back to Sevilla. My planned rides had left Palmar early because of the cold weather. Pretty soon the bus should be running again. The ride that Hector found me turned out to be with Virginia, one of the sisters who owns Flamenco y Mas, my favorite flamenco store. Oh the world is small.
Last week, in Sevilla, I was busy. Angel took me to his bank and I opened a new bank account. The woman who helped us was very nice and personable. She gave me her card. This new bank will be cheaper than Cajasol, our old bank. They also won’t make those crazy requests for a stamped, sealed documentation of being a non-resident!
Next I went to Cajasol to close my account. Of course I couldn’t because they needed Freddie’s signature too. So I took out some money and got instructions for Freddie to go to a Cajasol in Conil, a bigger pueblo near Palmar that has banks and ATMs, to sign something saying he wants to close the account.
I also decided to change cell phone companies and found a phone modem, which I bought for Freddie. We are switching to Yoigo, a much cheaper cell phone company that still has good coverage. Movistar used to be the best one in 1999, but now that technology has developed here, it is only the most expensive. Coverage is now about equal with many of the companies. My new sim card will fit into my iphone, which is unlocked. Freddie will need this new phone when he switches over. It takes a week because we are switching over our numbers too. So our contact information will stay the same. I went to a local store on calle Feria and the women there were very friendly and helpful.
I am waiting for my new bank debit card to come before I completely close the Cajasol account, which I have had since 1999. The new card should arrive tomorrow. My new red Flamenco shoes should also arrive tomorrow. I will probably close the old bank account on Wednesday, if everything goes smoothly.
I felt like I had made some good changes. Now things are in my neighborhood. I have established business with friendly and helpful people. The woman at my new bank helped me to work the machine were you can make a cash deposit. I know that it helped to have Angel introduce me. Now she will always know me. I have accomplished a lot this week. It meant getting up early because banks here are only open in the morning!
Now I am trying to organize packing before I move to the beach next Tuesday. I am sad that I won’t have more dance classes with Angelita, but I think I will enjoy a vacation. At this point I don’t feel as overloaded as I have felt in previous years. As Freddie recovers, I too recover.
Thursday night I am going to see Manuela Carrasco, one of the best Flamenco dancers in Spain. She is dancing close to here, outside. The seating is open, but the show only costs ten euros. Manuela recently performed in San Francisco and I was sad to miss it. And I know that those tickets cost a lot more than ten euros! Now I haven’t missed anything!
Life in Sevilla has been full. I continue my daily dance classes with Angelita, Lakshmi and my twice a week cante classes with Alicia.
Marianna with Angelita Vargas on the last day of my classes with her.
Stephanie comes up to Sevilla twice a week for Alicia’s classes, but Stephanie is leaving at the end of this week! It feels too early for her to leave but she has singing jobs already in the US. Of course we will miss her.
Sevilla is still cool, even though today is officially summer. It is the summer solstice. At least it is not too hot!
It is 11:30 and night and I have just finished dinner and washing my dishes. There has been loud music outside. It sounds like a party. I am about to go out to empty the recycling near Bar Hercules. I love the late-night life in Sevilla. It feels like seven or eight o’clock. The night feels warmer tonight.
I find it interesting that a lot of the non-flamenco music is American rock music. It just occurred to me that the music I hear may be coming from the Alameda, where they often have public concerts.
I just returned from recycling plastic and paper. It took less than five minutes and it was nice to get outside for a minute.
The night is warmer than it has been, but not too hot. And the music is coming from a concert right in front of the church, just beyond Bar Hercules and next to the Mercado. There is a packed crowd of people standing there. More people wander back and forth from Bar Hercules, drinking beer, or they stop at the tiny store across the street on calle Peris Mencheta that sells pizza and beer. Andalucia is definitely a drinking culture, but you rarely see full-on drunks, although most people seem to drink constantly. –A beer here, a tinto de verano there, whisky, anise, honey-rum. The people seem happy tonight.
June 22, 2010
Alicia rescheduled her cante class from today to Wednesday, so I had time to go to Flamenco y Mas to pick up my new red Flamenco shoes.
June 25, 2010
Freddie and I are in the car riding back from Sevilla to el Palmar with a “new” Pili, a friend of Hector’s who frequently visits Palmar on the weekends. I got a ride back to Sevilla with her about two weeks ago. As usual, time is flying.
Yesterday Freddie came up to Sevilla to attend Manuela Carrasco’s show with me. Manuela is one of the greatest of the puro Flamenco dancers in Spain. As I mentioned, Manuela recently performed in San Francisco, but we were here and felt sad about missing her. Then I read an email from the ticket services saying that we could buy tickets for her show at El Monestario in La Cartuja. And so we got to see her.
This is the fifth year that the government has sponsored Flamenco artists at this time of year in La Cartuja. Last year we saw Juan Del Gastor and Miguel Funi perform here. The venue is an outdoor courtyard with chairs and a stage. It only cost ten euros, which is a bargain. El Pele, a wonderful singer from Jerez, was on the program too. We went with Jill and Teresa and met Rina and Emilia there. They had to come late because of cante and dance classes. I am certainly not the only foreigner who madly takes Flamenco classes when in Sevilla.
The show was good and the air stayed comfortably warm. The last few days in Sevilla have been hot but not stifling. Lakshmi came after work and caught the second half of the show. Afterward we were all hanging out. Pepe Torres and his wife Sarah were there. It is good to see them.
We also saw Javier Heredia and Luis Peña. This is the first time we have seen Javier since we have been here. The last time we saw him was at our house when he toured recently with Cihtli and Ethan‘s Arte y Pureza show. We always have fun together. I love to play with him.
Everyone was going to a bar to party after the show and they tried to convince me to go. But Freddie and I were both tired so we opted out. It was Rina’s birthday and she was also ready to party. As it was, Freddie and I still got to bed after four AM. Lakshmi didn’t get home until after six AM, but she is young and can handle it better than we can.
I got up early the next morning because I wanted to close out my old Cajasol bank account. I am totally set up with my new bank and I love it. There was only one person in line in front of me when I walked into Cajasol. The same teller waited on me as before. She had the paper that Freddie had signed in Conil saying he wanted to cancel the account. I had about twenty euros left in it. This part of this long procedure was fast and easy. I had time to go home and make myself breakfast before going to Angelita’s class at 12:30.
Marianna with Angelita Vargas on the last day of my classes with her.
Lakshmi had postponed the first half hour of our private class that we normally do before Angelita’s class because she had gotten home so late. In my extra time I started organizing to go to Palmar. Fortunately I had enough time to call Hector and he told me that Pili planned to drive down today. Then I called her and we arranged to meet at her house between six and six-thirty. Here you often have to wait until the last minute to make arrangements.
Then I hopped on Angel’s daughter beautiful bike, my long red flowered dance skirt flying, and rode to Angelita’s class.
Marianna with Angelita Vargas on the last day of my classes with her.
After my class with Lakshmi I had time to take a shower and make lunch. About that time our friend Juaquin Gallegos from New Mexico stopped by to say goodbye. We invited him to lunch. Then Freddie and I finished packing and walked to Calle Feria to catch a taxi to Los Remedos, where Pili lives.
There is a train strike today, so the highway was jammed with cars. Now, as we have turned off the road to Cadiz, the traffic is not so bad as we had feared. It will get worse in July when the Sevillanos flee Sevilla in the summer. Actually this year the weather has been mild and I have not been too hot. But still I drip sweat in Angelita’s class and feel as if I have been in a sauna. Again, that feels great.
Earlier this week I got up early again and checked with my new bank for the card that hadn’t showed up in the mail. They had it there at the bank so they just gave it to me. Then Gema showed me how to put cash in the bank using a machine called a Cajero that actually scans my bankbook (libreta) and prints the deposit on it. Next I went to the Mercado across the street and bought a few groceries for myself: eggplant, green onion, garlic, lettuce, mushrooms, piñon nuts at one stall, and thin sliced beef at another. I didn’t have time to wait in line at the chicken stall.
After that I went to Telcor to get the addresses from Freddie’s old phone transferred to his new phone. I am also buying a phone for our friend and dance student Nancy, who arrives Monday. The new phones won’t arrive until Monday afternoon, so I will take her to pick it up. The phone I bought for Freddie is tiny. It is also a modem for the internet. It is ingeniously made, and everything connects with the same USB cable. It records voice and plays music. I recorded some of El Pele with it!
We have changed from Movistar to Yoigo for our mobile phones. I am keeping up with the times. I have changed the phone company and the bank that we’ve had since 1999. And the changes are good.
June 28, 2010 Monday
Arrived back in Sevilla from the beach. Leave for extended stay at the beach tomorrow. Closed the old bank and arranged to transfer money from our new bank account to our landlord Angel’s account on the first for the last rent here. I like my new bank.
Nancy, our friend and dance student, arrived in Sevilla today and I helped her get set up in Lakshmi’s neighbor’s apartment. Stephanie just left to take the 1 AM bus to Madrid to catch her plane home. I have one more class with Angelita tomorrow and of course with Lakshmi too. Got Freddie’s new sim card for his old number, which is now on Yoigo instead of Movistar.
Summer heat has hit. It was gorgeous in Palmar at 8:30 AM this morning when Pili (Palmar, friend of Hector’s) and I left the beach for Sevilla. Of course Sevilla is now hot. Run, run, run. I haven’t had much sleep.
I’m trying to get the house packed up but it needs more time. I lost hours of time when Pili and I waited until this morning to drive back to Sevilla. Oh well. Soon I’ll be back at the beach and starting the end leg of this trip.
Written by Marianna
10. Sevilla & the Beach – June 5-21, 2010
June 5, 2010
We are in playa el Palmar (the beach). Chris and I arrived in the late afternoon yesterday. Chris is staying on the couch in the bungalow that Freddie and I have rented for three days, until our other bungalow is free. This three-day bungalow is on the other end of Palmar, so we have to walk a bit of a distance to the part we like. It takes Chris and me about 10 minutes walking quickly. Freddie is much slower but he can walk it! Each time he does better.
View from breakfast near the first bungalow.
Freddie at breakfast.
We went to Hector’s “clubhouse” today. We finally met Hector this year. Hector is a 50-year old brown skinned, blue-eyed surfer. He was born in Tijuana and grew up in Southern California from the age of nine on. He used to work in the fashion industry in New York but he has since “escaped”. Palmar is a beautiful, non-touristy surfing village! Hector was on his way to surf in Portugal about ten years ago but he got hooked by Cadiz and never left Spain. Hector is extremely charismatic and warm. Everyone loves him.
Chris and Freddie.
We first heard about Hector last year or the year before. Our friend Josh (the one who lives in Granada and Vejer, not the one who rented the car!) had mentioned him once when we were visiting the beach at Palmar with them. Josh had gone off to visit Hector while we swam at the beach. He was going to take us to meet him, but Hector wasn’t there.
Last year in Palmar a German woman invited us to Hector’s “clubhouse” for her birthday party but we hadn’t gone. When we tried to find it we could not find an entrance. She hadn’t explained to us that is was down a short path behind the restaurant and then up the outdoor stairs to the roof. We learned this later that summer after we met Javi and discovered that he had rented an apartment there, by the stairs. On our last day in Palmar, we finally visited the clubhouse, but Hector still wasn’t there. So we had to wait until this year to meet him.
Hanging lamp on the azotea.
The clubhouse, now called “Lazotea Social Club” is on the azotea (rooftop) of a restaurant. This year “Lazotea Social Club” is run by two beautiful and loving women, Mar and Aspi. They both cook and serve tapas and drinks. They live in the apartment below, where Javi stayed last year. Hector’s house is in back.
Aspi
Clubhouse.
Mar and Freddie
Hector bought the building about eight years ago. The restaurant below rents from him. Hector completely redesigned the azotea and made it look like it does now in the photos. He also built the restaurant below. He seems to have a lot of building projects planned. Hector also builds and paints for other people. Painting includes artistic work too, such as painting surfboard designs on a restaurant’s round tables and making a beautiful mermaid by a restaurant’s boat. Hector may no longer work in the fashion industry, but he stays artistic and has a wonderful sense of design.
Chris and Freddie.
June 6, 2010
The main road here is on the edge of the beach. Almost everything happens along this two-lane road, especially at night. Walking back from Hector’s to our bungalow late at night, Freddie and I passed a man playing guitar and singing Flamenco. A crowd was around him, playing palmas (hand clapping rhythms) and singing with him. I love it.
View of ocean from Lazotea (rooftop). This road is the main road in Palmar.
I can’t believe I have hardly written since I have been here. But I have spent two days on the beach and in the cold, still rough salt water. It has been breezy and the currents are strong. But we have gone in the ocean anyway. Freddie has learned to get up by himself when he is sitting in the water. He used to panic and then it was hard to help him. But now as he feels more comfortable and in control, he can use us as balance. He is too heavy for us to lift. (“Us” refers to me and any of our friends who are with us. They all help Freddie.)
Josh and Lakshmi
Today Josh and Lakshmi came down from Sevilla. They had driven to Vejer last night after Lakshmi got off work. They are staying with Deborah, a friend of Lakshmi’s, whom we have heard about for years. We finally got to meet Deborah today, at the beach. Deborah is the mother of Tao Ruspoli, a young man who made a wonderful Flamenco movie, “Flamenco, a Personal Journey”, which included our friends Juan del Gastor, Luis Peña and Raul “el Perla”. Juan was Tao’s Flamenco guitar teacher.
Freddie and Deborah.
Chris went back to Deborah’s with Lakshmi and Josh. He will spend the next two nights there. We are invited up there for dinner tomorrow. Lakshmi has offered to cook.
In the morning, before noon, we move from this three-day bungalow to one that is next door to Javi (and Stephanie). It is near where we stayed last year, in the part of the beach that we like the best.
Freddie actually ran on the beach today. Towards the end of the day he walked to the water and suddenly I looked up and was watching him jogging to the rocks. Then he turned around and jogged back. By the time I got over my astonishment and grabbed the camera, he was slowing down to a walk! I shot a little video of him afterward, but I missed the real jogging! I was amazed. My mouth was hanging open. I love it when I am surprised like this.
The rocks where Freddie ran to.
We were a big group on the beach today: Javi, Stephanie, Chris, Lakshmi, Josh, Deborah, Freddie and me. Then Emilia joined us. She is a Bulgarian Canadian American Flamenco singer who has been living in Spain this year. We first met her last year when Juan gave a Cursillo at our house in Sevilla. We have seen her several times in Sevilla this year and then last night we ran into her at a small Flamenco performance here in Palmar. Emilia had come here to escape Sevilla for a while. Flamenco is a small world! She joined us today on the beach, too.
Chris and Freddie. Chris is wearing Lakshmi's sunglasses.
Freddie is so happy here at the beach. Tonight we walked home about 1 AM and were admiring the ocean and the rolling waves along the shore. It is beautiful and calm. Many people come here to get out of Sevilla! I always think of my mother when I am at the beach. She was the ultimate beach lover. She had a saying about going in the ocean when you were ambivalent: “You only regret it if you don’t go in!” She was right. So I listen to her motto and jump into the cold water and love it.
June 8, 2010 Tuesday afternoon
Sitting in the back of the car, on the way back to Sevilla, wind in my face, I am tan from the beach. Lakshmi is driving. Chris, Stephanie and I are in back. Josh is in front. He rented the car in Sevilla and he and Lakshmi drove to Vejer late Saturday night. Sunday they joined us on the beach in Palmar.
Freddie and I moved to our new bungalow Monday morning. It is right next to Javi’s and next to the Kotadalu restaurant. It is lovely and we like it.
Because we can only stay there until the 30th of June, I had to find another place for the first part of July, when I will be joining Freddie on a steady basis. I had put out the word and last night I checked out several leads that Hector had given me. When they didn’t work out Hector walked with me to see if his friend Jose was willing to rent the house he was keeping for himself. Hector told me that if we couldn’t find a place he would escape for a while and let us live in his house! He was only half kidding, he told me later.
Jose’s house was not available but Hector talked to him about Jose’s aunt’s rentals. There was one available, so Hector and I walked there. Everything was about a minute away from everything else. The house, although more expensive than I had hoped it would be, is beautiful, and we wanted it. It has an open kitchen, a large living room with a fireplace, three nice bedrooms, a bathtub with a shower, and a large yard. It is right across the street from the beach, but it is set back more from the road than the house we rented last year, so there is more privacy. I mentioned that we might share it with another couple and Lila, the landlady, was fine with that.
View of donkeys from Lazotea (rooftop). Our new house is just beyond what you see.
A few days ago I had walked by our “last year’s house” and I had talked to Juani and her mother (our landladies from last year here) about re-renting that house. They had greeted me very warmly. They gave me a rental price for the specific dates I had requested. They said that they were glad that they already knew us.
When I called them back the next day they doubled the price. Juani told me that she had forgotten that it was July (although I had requested dates in July specifically) Rentals at the beach are more expensive in July and even more expensive in August, when the summer heat in the cities is usually unbearable. Extra people would have to pay a lot more too, Juani told me.
Their house is also three-bedroom (one is a converted closet), but small, dirty, and in disrepair, and almost right on the road. Juani and especially her mother, Juana “la Loca” (as we call her), are greedy people. That is the day I started to look for another place. The contrast between them and Lila was huge. I also had Hector as a reference with Lila, which I am sure helped.
This morning Freddie and I went there again, with Hector. We will rent it and hope that some of our friends can rent it with us. We put some money down on the house. I accomplished what I had set out to do this weekend. I have found us places for our entire stay at the beach and I was able to help Freddie move into the bungalow where he will stay until the end of June. I will be visiting on weekends.
Freddie and Hector
Freddie shared some insights at the Lazotea Social Club and at the beach – He now sees the stroke as a gift. He said this to Emilia, the Bulgarian Canadian American woman. Freddie was able to verbally express his feelings. He said that the stroke made him turn inward. He had always been outward before. He appreciates this new direction. And he was able to communicate it all to the people he talked to. Freddie says that before, he couldn’t verbally say those things, but his stage of recovery now allows this kind of verbal communication. Olé.
June 9, 2010 Wednesday
Freddie is at the beach alone. Javi was going to be there next door, but Javi’s father died today and he had to go back to Sevilla. Javi had just arrived home today at the beach from visiting his dying father in Sevilla yesterday. I think that may have been what his father needed to be able to let go. I don’t think that Javi had been home more than an hour or two, when he got the call about his father.
So Freddie doesn’t have anyone he knows next door to him now. He told me that he and Hector had breakfast together this morning. He called me on the new phone I had sent down to him with Javi this morning. While I was still in Palmar, Freddie went in the ocean with his phone in the pocket of his swimming trunks. He remembered the phone when he got out of the water. The phone died, of course.
Freddie and Hector
Luckily we had another old phone at the house (from before I started using my iPhone with the Spanish sim card in it.) Freddie’s sim card stayed intact so he still has his same number and all the addresses that were saved to the card. Some get saved to the phone. In Spain and in other European countries the cell phones have sim cards in them. They are interchangeable in the phones, as long as you stay with the company you brought the card from.
Freddie had called me on his new phone. Javi was still there. Freddie wanted to know how to use the new modem to get the Internet that I had bought for him. To me it seems easy and I had shown him how to do it before I left. Now I instructed Javi on how to help him and they got the Internet working. You have to set it up and put in a pin each time. That is still hard for Freddie, but he will get it. Freddie is still getting used to computers, aside the handicaps from the effects of the stroke.
Freddie will spend his 71st birthday (June 10) celebrating his new autonomy. This is an important time for him. Ever since his stroke Freddie has been living with someone taking care of him. This is the first time since his stroke that he has been able to be alone with himself. And this is the first time since Freddie’s stroke that I have been alone without him being in the hospital! The other day at the beach I was in our bungalow unpacking and Freddie was at Kotadalu, the hip restaurant/surf shop almost next door. I suddenly realized that I could do anything I wanted. And I wanted to go down to the beach. So I did.
I passed Freddie at Kotadalu and told him that I was going to the beach. He said he would join me and went home to change. After a while he came walking down, his beach chair and a towel on one arm, beach mats and our sun umbrella on the other. The heat of the sun on the beach made the umbrella look great.
I am so glad that we keep these things stored in Spain. They would be too expensive as well as time consuming to buy each year. Freddie uses the beach chair every year.
I remember one night last year at the beach when we couldn’t find Freddie for a while. He had brought his chair down to the beach and was sitting in front of the waves in the moonlight. It was great. He loves it here.
View of ocean from Lazotea (rooftop).
I think that Freddie feels more “normal” here than he does in the city. Some people worry about Freddie being alone. But Freddie is well enough to be in charge of himself. I had Stephanie prepackage all of Freddie’s pills and he has them arranged in the beach house. As long as he remembers to take them, he will be fine. And he knows that. He understands that missing some pills could make him more vulnerable to a stroke. Letting go is scary but right. I have to let Freddie live his own life. He can say yes or no. And I support that.
There is a loving un-intertwining that is going on now. It is an interesting concept. But Freddie and I both are happy about this new stage in his recovery and so in our relationship as well. I will be coming down every weekend and will stay there in July until it is time to leave. It is a wonderful way to relax.
I just found out that our good friend Ethan has been invited and hired to play guitar at the Caracolá of Lebrija (a pueblo near Sevilla), Lebrija’s most important Flamenco event. Now I wish we would stay another eleven days to see it. Wikipedia says, “Lebrija is a renowned flamenco centre and the Caracolá, one of the major flamenco festivals in Spain is held there every year in July. ...”
June 12, 2010 Saturday
I am back at the beach. Friday after my class, Hector called me and told me that he was in Sevilla and that there were two cars going back to Palmar that evening. I got a ride back with Hector and a lovely German couple, Gila and Klaus, who live permanently in Palmar. They had all been at the Mac repair store in Sevilla. Gila and Klaus are both writers. The screen on one of their computers had died and they had to get a new computer. They got the new MacBook Pro, which is beautiful. It is light and small and much more portable than mine. I am jealous.
Marianna
Last Tuesday, we arrived in Sevilla just in time for Alicia’s three-hour cante class. It was wonderful. Shortly after I got home, I had another cante class for over an hour with Juan. That too was wonderful, but when I woke up the next day, my voice was hoarse!
Thursday at class Alicia said that it was because I had not sung from my diaphragm but had used my throat instead. I had been trying to consciously sing in the manner that Alicia had taught me. But Stephanie, who was in the house getting ready to go to Jerez to see Chiqui, (who is now out of the hospital), shared her insights with me. She said at first that I was singing correctly, but as Juan pushed me that she could hear my voice technique regressing as I tried harder. So I guess that Alicia was right.
I had blamed it on the weather! Sevilla has been cold and rainy since I came back! Freddie told me that Palmar was warm but cold at night.
Thursday Cihtli was in Sevilla and spent the night with me. She took me out to Bar Eslava, a wonderful little bar/restaurant that Freddie and I first went to in 1999. Then Cihtli and I stayed up and talked until 3:00 AM, although we were both exhausted. Ethan was out partying with another friend. Cihtli and I always have a great time together.
Now here in Palmar, the weather has just turned overcast. But we are still happy. I return to Sevilla on Sunday night.
June 13, 2010 Sunday
Josh and Regina came down from Granada and brought Freddie a delicious birthday dessert on Thursday. They all celebrated at the Lazotea. Today they visited again. They are staying at their house in Vejer. They rent it out in the summer so that limits their visiting time. We partied and froze on the Lazotea but we all had a wonderful time.
Josh and Regina
2 couples
June 21, 2010 Summer Solstice
I have been lucky to get rides back and forth between Sevilla and Palmar. Hector has been an angel helping me with the connections. He knows everyone. And, as I said before, everyone loves him.
Freddie is in his element here, but we miss each other. On the other hand, the independence is good for us both. When I came last Friday and also the Friday before, the house was clean and nice. Freddie had hung his white mosquito netting above the bed like a romantic tent. No more mosquito bites. Freddie is very organized here. Many people don’t even realize that Freddie is recovering from a major stroke. And he is still making steady progress. What a wonderful way to celebrate this year’s summer solstice.
View of ocean from Lazotea (rooftop).
Josh and Freddie at Clubhouse.
Written by Marianna
9. Sevilla – May 26 - June 4, 2010
May 26, 2010
In Angelita’s dance class today, I was tired and fuzzy and kept forgetting part of the choreography that I knew. Towards the end of class there was one new step that Angelita was repeating and adding some stylistic things to. For some reason, I felt relaxed and doing the things she suggested and playing with the step felt easy. Angelita was thrilled and shook my hand, which was a big complement. She is very supportive.
Earlier in the class she had talked about a slower step for me again, because of my age. The funny thing was that there are other steps she does that I do have difficulty doing, but not the one she was talking about. And the difficult steps are getting much easier.
I guess I am still confused about what I “should” be able to physically do, because I don’t feel or act “old”. But as I have said before, a thirty or forty years’ age gap does make an enormous difference in the state of the human body. However we are all dripping sweat during and after the class. It is like a sauna. I am sure that that much exercise and sweating is probably very healthy. It is certainly fun and very Flamenco.
After class Lakshmi, Stephanie, Natalia and I stopped off for a drink. Lakshmi had a soft drink and Stephanie and Natalia both drank Tinto de Veranos, a very popular summer drink here made out of red wine and soda with lemon. I had my water with me but I tasted Stephanie’s drink. Then all three women urged me to have one, so I relented and Stephanie bought me one. I hardly ever drink now because I get sleepy instead of tipsy. I was also a little worried about how it would affect me in my dance class with Lakshmi, which we would have as soon as we were done with our drinks. But Lakshmi urged me to try the Tinto de Verano and everything went well later in class.
Both Natalia and Stephanie have private classes scheduled with Lakshmi tomorrow and Lakshmi wanted to show Natalia where her house was. So we all walked there. Then Stephanie continued on to our house and Natalia went on to another class she is taking. She will be leaving this weekend to meet her mother in Madrid. Her mother is from Madrid and they will be seeing relatives. After spending time with her mother, Natalia will return to India for a month, where she had traveled before coming to Turkey and then to Spain. We are all so glad that we have met her and I know that we will miss her.
Lakshmi came over to eat lunch with us after we finished our private class. I read her part of my newest Sevilla update, which I was still editing. I had talked a lot about her in it. Stephanie and Freddie were listening to it too.
I felt relaxed because I had no other classes planned today. I was looking forward to taking a shower and a nap after lunch.
Lakshmi still had to take some paperwork to her lawyer before going to work at the Tablao. Tonight she has to be there at six instead of six-thirty. So she left and I continued to read more of the update to Stephanie and Freddie.
I was just reading “Ring, ring-ring! has become Juan’s ring”, when we heard that very ring. Juan del Gastor was at the door. No more than five minutes after Juan arrived (or less) there was another ring. This time it was Carlos Heredia.
Carlos was worried about us because I hadn’t answered his phone calls yesterday or today. He had called at all hours, as he had said, but I happened to be in a class every time that he had called. I knew that he was calling to find out when his next class with Freddie would be, and Freddie hadn’t made his decision yet. I was waiting for Freddie to give me a day and a time to tell to Carlos before I called him back. Carlos told me that I should call him back even if I didn’t know, so that Carlos wouldn’t worry about us.
Juan and Carlos, who are normally in very different social circles, started to talk about construction work they are both involved in. I was exhausted so I excused myself to take a siesta. (I postponed the shower idea, as my sweat from the dance classes had already dried). My eyes were blurry and I needed to lie down. Later I noticed that Freddie was beside me and I could still here Juan and Carlos talking in the living room.
Freddie had gotten bored and had just left. At some point Juan and Carlos realized that Freddie had just gone to bed! Juan left. Carlos asked Stephanie when Freddie wanted his next class. Stephanie asked Freddie and then it was settled for tomorrow and Carlos left.
Later this evening Chris came over. He and Freddie went out to Bar Hercules and I joined them a little later, when I returned from Flamenco y Mas, where I am still trying to get more Flamenco shoes. At least I now know what I want even though I am still not sure of the brand.
Chris and Freddie had called to me when they saw me across the street, but I had my earphones on listening to cante (Flamenco singing), and I didn’t hear them. As I was at the front door I saw Chris coming down the street. He told me where they were and that I hadn’t heard them call me. I love the small town neighborhood here.
Friday May 28, 2010
Today was very good for me. It was a very good day. I danced and danced again.
First I took Angelita’s class and next I followed up with a private class with Lakshmi. Chris played guitar for both classes. After that I walked home (five minutes).
At home we were expecting Teresa and Natalia, who were walking over from Triana. When they arrived, we called Juan, who is Teresa’s second cousin and he came over to see her.
More friends visited and played Flamenco guitar, and then most of us went to eat natural ice cream at our favorite heladoria –Stephanie, Chris, Lakshmi, Joaquin, Teresa, Natalia, (and Ninya, Teresa’s little rescued dog). This was a despedida (good bye) for Natalia, who was leaving Sevilla. She took the train to Madrid this evening to spend time with her mother and Spanish relatives before going back to India for a second visit. We will miss her. We just met her at Angelita’s dance class at the beginning of May, but we have spent time and had fun together. We all feel close.
Eating Ice Cream - Freddie, Teresa and Natalia
Afterwards, I tried to take a nap and couldn’t sleep, so I had time to order some red Flamenco shoes before my cante class with Juan at 9:00 PM. I walked up to Flamenco y Mas and finally figured out which brand of shoe to buy. They will take three weeks to get here.
I arrived home three minutes before Juan came for our cante class. I had an incredible Taranto cante class with him. Freddie was there, cheering me on. This lesson was good for my voice and good for my soul. I am really enjoying these classes with Juan. He will go to New York for two weeks in June to teach a Cursillo. We’ll miss him.
After the class Freddie and I ate the delicious beans that Stephanie had cooked for the weekend. Stephanie left for Cadiz this evening to visit Chiqui, her singing teacher from Jerez, who is in the hospital. Chiqui had a severe moto (motorcycle) accident recently when she had a diabetic reaction while driving. She had not worn her helmet and she had almost died. Her tongue was sliced in half and one eye was out of the socket. (They repaired the tongue and put the eye back in). Her face had been smashed. Chiqui will be hospitalized for two weeks! I know that Stephanie is very concerned for her.
And here I am writing. We missed a good singer at the nearby Flamenco bar last night. We’re old and needed some sleep. The young ones went: Lakshmi, Stephanie, Chris, Javi ….
About 4:30 AM a drunken woman started a fight with the bartender and someone sprayed pepper spray and the party broke up. I wish that I had had the energy to go. But Freddie and I were both tired so we stayed home and relaxed.
May 31, 2010 Monday
Time is flying. Tomorrow is June already. My friend Rina arrived with her fifteen-year old daughter Akahna. Freddie and I had dinner with them tonight on the Alameda at Bar Borear. The food there is excellent. We’ll take Rina and Akahna to the ice cream place tomorrow, as it is closed on Mondays.
It is always fun to see them. Rina will start Angelita’s class tomorrow. Angelita has just started to teach Tango. I miss the Alegrías because I love it so much. But I love Angelita.
Javi is leaving for the beach tomorrow because he has rented a small apartment there for a month, near where we rented last year. We plan to rent one too and Freddie will go there this month. Stephanie will take care of him most of the time when I am not there. The weather here is already too hot for Freddie. I still like it. And I love my dance classes.
Pilar (La Faraona, whom I have studied with several times) will not be teaching a Cursillo this year so I won’t have that conflict in June. Concha Vargas starts her Cursillo (workshop) tomorrow but it conflicts with some of my cante classes. I am almost done with Laura’s cante class. Stephanie has finished it already. She has also decided not to continue Angelita’s classes either because she wants to spend more time at the beach. She will come back only for Alicia Acuña’s cante classes, as she is her to study cante. Alicia’s classes are extremely helpful to both of us. Although I will take Alicia’s cante classes, I want to focus on Angelita’s dance classes this month. I am here for dance.
I will spend July 1 to 10 at the beach with Freddie, assuming we can find a place to rent for that time. The apartment we are taking for June at the beach is only available until June 30.
The bank story: In 1999 I opened a Spanish bank account near where I was then living (at la Carboneria). Last year when I arrived, they wouldn’t let me put more money in my account until I was “verified”. They needed our passports. At first they said that I would have to go to “my branch” to get it done, but then they relented and let me do it at the calle Feria branch close to home.
They said that I would have to do this now every year, because I was a non-resident. So I went this year, intent on putting a little more money in. I use the account to recharge the money on our prepaid cell phones (American credit cards don’t work) and to buy things here on the Internet. If I don’t recharge my phone numbers every three months, we will lose the numbers. So I do it from the US when I am there. I don’t have to ask anyone in Spain to do it for me because I have this Spanish Cajasol bank account.
When I went to do it this year I was told that I now need a non-resident stamped certificate to prove that I am a non-resident. They suggested getting it from the American consulate. I called the consulate last week and they assured me that this was a Spanish thing and that they had nothing to do with it. They suggested the foreigner’s police, but I could never reach them by phone, as their numbers were either out of existence, or they referred me to another number that didn’t answer.
I went back to the bank this morning with some documents that I received when I entered the country as a visitor, but they said that I needed something with an official seal. They had already told me that my drivers’ license wouldn’t be good enough. But that does have a seal on it. I called the Consulate again, but they were closed for Memorial Day. They take both Spanish and American holidays.
I am going to see if they can stamp something that says I am a non-resident. Maybe I can convince them to accept my drivers’ license. Spanish bureaucracy is so weird. These types of things drive me crazy here. They just don’t make sense. I could see having to prove residency. But non-residents don’t have papers or official seals!
June 1, 2010
Today in Angelita’s class there were only five of us. She is teaching Tangos. The class had been moved to 1:30 PM and the summer heat came with June. I sweated through my class with Lakshmi earlier and then again in the class with Angelita. We are lobbying for an earlier class, but for this week, Rina can’t come before 1:00 PM. After class I went with Rina and her daughter Akahna to get ice cream. She had read about our favorite ice cream place in my writings and she was not disappointed! Then she went on to a cante class and I went home.
Chris, Lakshmi, Freddie and I ended up going out for lunch today. We celebrated Chris’ last day of work teaching English in a school here in Spain. He has now moved out of his apartment and is staying at Josh’s until his parents arrive in two weeks. His family has rented a house for their upcoming visit to Sevilla. Then Chris goes to Armenia with them and on to Hamburg, Germany. He will be there at least for the summer. If things work out with his girlfriend and he finds work, he will stay there. Meanwhile, his teaching job is still open for him to take next fall, if he should want it.
June 4, 2010,
Time just keeps flying along. Freddie left for the beach last night with Javi and Stephanie, in Javi’s car. Stephanie will be helping Freddie while I am not there. I am on the bus today on the way to join them. Chris is with me. The summer bus schedule does not start until June 25, so the buses don’t always run. There is nothing to Conil (close to Palmar) from Sevilla on the weekends! There is only a Sunday bus back at 7:30 AM. From Conil we have to wait ½ an hour for a bus to Palmar, our destination. Things in Spain are not always easy.
The other day Angelita brought a skirt to class just to show me, one that she didn’t wear in class. She had bought it in Japan, and it reminded her of one that I had. Of course I admired her skirt. She told me that if I bought some material she would take me to her seamstress. Then she invited me to eat at her house with Lakshmi. She also invited a dancer from Israel who was in the dressing room at that time.
Last Wednesday we talked to Angelita about having class on Thursday, even thought it was one of Spain’s many fiesta days (holiday) and she agreed. That would mean that she would skip class on Friday. Then she suggested to Lakshmi that she visit on Friday. After that she invited me too. I was going to go and then visit Palmar on the weekend.
But Lakshmi said to me, if I were you, I would go to the beach Friday and have more days there. Sevilla was very hot that day! I thought about it and on Thursday I told Angelita that I would love to go another time because Freddie wanted me at the beach, which was true. It is a good thing that I did decide to go on Friday, given that now I know that there are no buses even going close to Palmar on the weekend!
Another things that I forgot to mention, is that I did something very right in Angelita’s class last week and she shook my hand. That was a big complement.
I love the Tangos that she has started to teach. Lakshmi thinks that maybe that will become “my dance”. It is much, much easier than the Alegrías or Bulerías that Angelita taught earlier. I am able to do it already putting in my personality. Lakshmi is teaching me some good techniques for memorizing dance choreography. I will definitely pass these tips on in my classes when I return.
Marianna and Angelita Vargas afte class 6/15/10. Taken with my iphone
I cannot say enough good things about Angelita’s classes. She is such a joy to be near. At times when she dances in class, her long, thick black braid swings, and there is an expression of quiet joy on her brown face. Usually when she teaches she wears her hair up on her head, but sometimes she braids it. At other times her tied up hair comes undone and her loose hair falls past her thick waist. She is beautiful.
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